Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 9k to spend on my car 2k is going to body work the other 7k is for performance.

Any ideas what to do?

My end goal is about 350rwkw this round of mods id be happy with 260-280rwkw

I though of putting in an rb25 new afm injectors coilpack bigger turbo all running from my rb20 ecu.

Next round of mods would be forged bottom end.

How does that sound or is there abetter way to go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190840-best-way-to-spend-7k/
Share on other sites

Unless of course you do it all yourself.

RB25DET

+HKS gt-rs or 3076R on standard manifold. $2400

HKS Exhaust or equivilant. 3" $1200

decent frontmount kit. $600

Engine management $1500

nismo 555cc Injectors $870

z32 AFM $450

Splitfire Coilpacks $525

Decent Fuel Pump $300

total So far $7320 + tune $500.

You could save yourself some money using a Garett Huffer which is only about $1600

so that brings it down to $7520

So you can add a Oil cooler $400. Plus new oil $60.

New total :

$6990.

These Estimate of course are very rough. But that brings you quite close to your immediate goal. There are many different routes you could take. You could however, start off with a strong build, that way you will be ready for your go fast bits to get up to your 350rwkw goal. And in doing anyjob like this You will be suprised how many other little things you will have to get that you didnt think of even when doing it yourself.

If you got 7k to spend, budget 6 for parts. and 1k for the unexpected which will happen.

You will also need a decent clutch.

If you want transplant go RB26.

for about $4.5-$5K you can get

used RB26 complete with turbos, AFMs, intake gear, injectors, intercooler etc etc.

get the sump modified and fit it up.

run 1 bar boost and whack in a power FC then you have 250-270rwkw all day long. it will probably stretch your budget a bit and you will need a few other things like fuel pump etc but it will be pretty cool.

Why go rb26 when you can go a much cheaper alternative of a 25/30 and then spend the rest on a turbo, management and injectors?

Also, there is a guy over in tassie with a tuff little rb20 already setup thats not in the car yet, td06, management, injectors, HKS cams etc... maby ask him if his interested in a swap + cash or something. After seeing Roys results with an rb20 running a similar setup (minus cams) I wouldn't be surprised to see it kick out some very decent power.

Rb26s are overpriced in my opinion, they do offer a few advantages (cams, plenum, lifters to mention a few) but the way I look at it, a hybrid costs less, make alot more midrange and with is ability to spool a the huffer sooner, will make a much more street able car.

Or you could go to the casino, double your money and drop in a 2jz or even an ls1. Do it, I dare ya!!! hahaha

yeah a + 1 for a 25/30 hybrid also... bigger bang for your buck! Find a good cond stock bottom end that is known to be healthy, get a head, some GTR cams and regrind them larger (PM cubes for this) then with standard manifold run a GT3076 with the larger ex housing, IW and grab an RB20 ecu, rechip that (you'll be ditching the VCT anyway) and you'll make an easy 300 + rwkw reliably, keep the revs below 7000 and it should last a long time.

motor $100-200 (for a s2-3 RB30 in good cond, only need bottom end)

head $900-1000

cams + regrind $500

RB20 ecu $100

remap and tune $500

turbo + lines and dump $2.2K

still got plenty money left to play with

motor $100-200 (for a s2-3 RB30 in good cond, only need bottom end)

head $900-1000

cams + regrind $500

RB20 ecu $100

remap and tune $500

turbo + lines and dump $2.2K

still got plenty money left to play with

Hmm I could be wrong but there seems to be a few things missing here..

he has

currently rb20det with FMIC pod filter TBE r34gtt turbo. Apexi AVCR boost controller.

Before the turbo was put on it was making 195rwhp. Going in for retune of stock ecu hopefully this weekend

you don't seem to have any:

gasket kit - $250

valve springs - $500

Machine shop work for head and block deck for a perfect seal and to tap the nw timing belt pulley - $300?

New water pump, idler and pulleys - $300

new timing belt - $150

injectors - $500

fuel pump - $300

Z32 AFM - $300

clutch - $700

run in oil, new oil, oil filter, new coolant etc - $150

other (covers things like new hoses, vacuum lines, bolts and nuts you break, little seals from the 20 year old bottom end that might be leaking etc) - $500

how's that budget 300rwkw coming along now?

I reckon stick with the original RB25 transplant, but plan to get the bottom end forged for over 260rwkw of power.

It's still gonna handle at least 300rwkw with the mods you want, and with some top end mods (cams/cam gears/v. springs/port&polish) will be able to make a lot of power.

So you'll save a bit on buying the 25 rather than a 26, and you're not going to be 'disadvantaged' that much with the end result.

Thats my 2c

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
    • Thanks for the details mate , for me I think being a daily driven and happy with a basic tune (630Nm and 310kw) . Seems to be working well I just put on a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4 should help put the power down. I'm going to start looking a brakes and LSD in the future so I might reach out to you on options to upgrade the brakes. Cheers - Dee   
    • I have a HR34 GT... RB20DE My speedo doesn't work! The rest of the gauges seem to work, fuel and RPM. I did not notice if my odometer was going up when driving last.  Any ideas? Speed sensor? Hopefully atleast... Gauge cluster perhaps? Or is that unlikely because the other gauges are working?   Any insight is appreciated. This is a rather new to me car. Lol 
×
×
  • Create New...