Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving down the mitchell the other night i was doing 100ish and went to pass someone and as i accelerated after about 3 seconds it just stopped accelerating i still had my accelerator pushed down it was as if i had taken my foot off the accelerator could this be fuel cut? any help would be good.

Edited by WA_R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191438-car-not-accelerating-properly/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry guys for the lack of info but its a bit hard to explain, it seems to happen at random intervals and can be in any gear (so far its happened in 1st, 2nd and 5th) and it doesnt matter if the car is hot or cold. i think it happens about 3500-4000 rpm but im not usually looking at my tacho whne it happens ill look next time it does. i dont think its a boost leak but i have a boost leak tester so i will try that on the weekend i was also thinking that i could be my fuel pump. i wouldnt think that i would be coilpacks either cause it seems like the whole engine cuts out (could be all my coilpacks i guess) hope thats enough info.

my r32 is doing the same thing just loses power when accalerating then comes back after a few seconds. ive asked around to see if anyone knows what the deal is and they all keep saying it sounds like my afm has died on me. Its the only thing i havent replaced since this problem has arised. Ive checked for boost leak and cant find any, have changed my fuel filter, cleaned the afm out along with my k & n filter. Might have to look into my coilpacks after reading some posts :thanks:

yeah thanks guys now the big question do i just buy some stock 2nd hand coilpacks and risk the same problem again or should i bite the bullet and go and get some splitfires? also has anyone got or tried the Just Jap coil packs they are only 400 brand new over the splitfires which are 490 brand new what do people think?

If you buy secondhand, whats to say they are not in the same condition....or only last 6 months?

Buy new, that way you know they will work 100%. I use Split fire and have no problem. Dont know about the just jap ones..but for a $90 difference, i would go with the Splitfires.

before you spend the money on coil packs make sure it is the coilpacks first... as it sounds more like a blocked fuel filter to me.I had my coil packs go on me and the symptoms were a little different.when mine went it was great until you had been driving for about half hour,then it would start spluttering and misfiring under harse acceleration.It did it less when the weather was hot but missed a lot in cold weather...hope that helps.

Sorry to chime in on your thread, but i'm having a somewhat similar problem with my R32.

My problem is as follows.

After i've been driving conservatively for a while, if i plant it in 1st, 2nd or 3rd, the fast increase in rpm and boost causes my car the pop and spit like crazy at about 4000rpm and will continue to do so untill i stop accellerating / change gear.

I'm not sure if it's a fuel or an ignition problem. I installed a fuel mixture display kit from Jaycar to see if it was not igniting (rich) or not getting fuel (lean), but the lights just get disco fever.

Running stock fuel pump / injectors.. stock boost.. only thing i've changed recently was installing a fmic, so i'm thinking the increased air flow may be the cause of the issue.. but not sure.

any feedback, suggestions or ideas would be grealy appreciated.

Edited by Wogan

R&R anybody?!!!!!

can you list all your mods?

you would be better off paying for a diagnostic/dyno run than rushing out to get $500 worth of coil packs. . .

In the 2 years Ive had my car, it has:

leaned out from a dirty AFM from Hks mushroom(oiled) filter and a weak fuel pump. ping!!

Hit R&R on the stock computer from too much boost - feels like the brakes are on, it just slows down, but it goes away.

Missed with stock coils at around 4500 rpm (PFC) - like hitting the limiter, it pops and misses etc

sound like one of those?

  WhiteHot_R33 said:
R&R anybody?!!!!!

can you list all your mods?

you would be better off paying for a diagnostic/dyno run than rushing out to get $500 worth of coil packs. . .

In the 2 years Ive had my car, it has:

leaned out from a dirty AFM from Hks mushroom(oiled) filter and a weak fuel pump. ping!!

Hit R&R on the stock computer from too much boost - feels like the brakes are on, it just slows down, but it goes away.

Missed with stock coils at around 4500 rpm (PFC) - like hitting the limiter, it pops and misses etc

sound like one of those?

yeah sounds like the second one what did you do to fix that? also list of mods, FMIC, k&n filter, 3 inch cat back and manual boost controller

  bubba said:
I have a spare R32 RB20DET airflow meter that yas can borrow to see if it fixes the problem. I have a z32 afm in my car now so.. :P

yeah that might be an idea ill go and get a dyno run done and ill let you know how it goes hopefully will get that done next weekend if i can find a place to do it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...