Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Two of my bosses have Audi A8's. They have terrible mobile reception and we've found out that it's because the glass has a thin film of aluminium in I think for UV rays or something. It stops their e-tags working too.

Anyway, one of them wants me to get his roof drilled for an external aerial but I am concerned about creating a place for rust to start. I know there is lots of aluminium in these cars but surely there is steel too?

I thought it would be better to drill the glass. Can this be done? Does anyone know where I can get it done?

Thanks.

doooood! don't drill any holes anywhere. the external aerial just sticks on the outside of the glass, then you just need to feed a thin wire through a panel gap, seal gap or make a small gap and do through there. there is usually a way. drilling a hole in the screen you can't do as cracks will propogate from the hole, drilling the roof is pretty drastic too. call one of the mobile phone install guys I'm sure they can figure it out easy.

Well we tried one who installed an external aerial but it still goes through the glass without wires and it doesn't work.

Baron is right though. You can get external aerials that have the wires that run to the car kit. I think there is one in the merc.

Well we tried one who installed an external aerial but it still goes through the glass without wires and it doesn't work.

Its broken get another my friend had one for ages and is still working now anyway car phone? who has them anymore

It stops their e-tags working too.

There should be a dotted section on the windscreen near the rear view mirror - this section doesn't have the metal film and they should place their eTag brackets there. :P

Two of my bosses have Audi A8's. They have terrible mobile reception and we've found out that it's because the glass has a thin film of aluminium in I think for UV rays or something. It stops their e-tags working too.

Anyway, one of them wants me to get his roof drilled for an external aerial but I am concerned about creating a place for rust to start. I know there is lots of aluminium in these cars but surely there is steel too?

I thought it would be better to drill the glass. Can this be done? Does anyone know where I can get it done?

Thanks.

As far as I know, Adam, the A8 has an all-aluminium body, because it's their flagship model. This could be another reason why the reception is compromised. Then again, it does reduce the risk of rust if they were to drill into the body.

There should be a dotted section on the windscreen near the rear view mirror - this section doesn't have the metal film and they should place their eTag brackets there. :P

True, I'm pretty sure all manufacturers leave a small section of windscreen "unprotected" for this purpose, and it's usually right under the rear-view mirror.

There should be a dotted section on the windscreen near the rear view mirror - this section doesn't have the metal film and they should place their eTag brackets there. :)

Yeah apparently they figured this out just after this model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...