Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks the same as the bursons one Neil

Yea your right Chris and I'm starting to think all of them under $200 bucks are all the same.

That e-bay search is "Autolac" who are a paint supplier and have stock.

I'm just going to buy the cheapest one and fix it when it breaks.

Cheers

Neil.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone confirm whether rolling your guards, rears in particular is a defect? Ive been told that its considered altering the structural integrity of the car and as a result is a defect?

Also, for anyone interested, I bought one of the rollers off Ebay, seller is based in Adelaide so was able to go and collect it...paid around $150 for it, worked fine...I will add, be very careful rolling the rear guards on an R32, they are prone to denting along the lip if you try to stretch/flare the guard...it is the design of the guard, there is a tighter radius curve in the panel as it goes underneath and rolling this causes stress and creates dents. Im sure its not just R32s that this happens on, have seen other cars dented up as a result...

  • 1 month later...

As for rolling/ flaring heres my contribution, very smooth and free with my hammer ;) prob not many of you SAU blokes style but here goes..

post-77457-0-16112500-1301035657_thumb.jpg

post-77457-0-30682000-1301035716_thumb.jpg

first time aswell, was easy enough.

Edited by nik.
  • 3 weeks later...

When i got defected the inspectors almost made me get a engineers cert because they couldn't measure a proper eye brow height pinch.gif

Then they went on saying "it looks to been professionally done" so let me go.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Is that true that you cant roll front guards on GTR's?? and if you can is there anyone in perth area that can do it.

Also wondering this, on account of them being alloy.

I'm more interested in the rear gaurds though - want to get 11" under there and don't want to mess around with tons of bog or fibreglass.

  • 1 month later...

i went to get the rears rolled on my 32r a week ago and the length adjustment on the guard roller wouldn't go short enough :(

not sure if all are the same, but when we jacked up the car, the suspension wouldn't allow the rear hub to drop low enough. now i am outta ideas... any suggestions?

As for rolling/ flaring heres my contribution, very smooth and free with my hammer ;) prob not many of you SAU blokes style but here goes..

post-77457-0-16112500-1301035657_thumb.jpg

post-77457-0-30682000-1301035716_thumb.jpg

first time aswell, was easy enough.

how does that go over bumps? are you hitting the tyres?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...