Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys n girls... my names Vish own a silver 4 door R33 gtst .. plates r 53XYN pretty stock cept pod full exhust system suspension n wheels, usually wave or flash my lights at other liners most times get a response back.

hey guys n girls... my names Vish own a silver 4 door R33 gtst .. plates r 53XYN pretty stock cept pod full exhust system suspension n wheels, usually wave or flash my lights at other liners most times get a response back.

And you have Advan Tri-spokes and are always out at Griffith...

They picked me up 2 weeks ago for a fiberglass bonnet and unsecured airfilter, those things are fixed.

They went over it this morning and found:

1. Coil Overs.. Not ADR approved

2. Exhaust.. Not ADR Approved for Noise and Emissions

3. Front indicators(holden VY side repeaters).. Not ADR Approved

4. Parkers.. Blue tint?? WTF they are white, no sign of blue at all.

5. Headlights.. Dull and faded plastic.. along with every other 33 in the country

6. Rear Indicators and reverse lights tinted (i knew that one sort of just crossed my fingers and hoped they wouldnt care)

7. Steering Column rubs on headers (he was lucky to pick that up it only does it once in a blue moon) ah well...

Most of it is an easy fix, i still have the stock suspension and all the other bits ill pinch of the GTR for the inspection bar the exhaust thats gonna bbe tricky, though a good friend of mine is an approved exhaust fitter and testing dude.

Things they should have but didnt get me for, Large Holes cut in structural parts of the body, Wheels and Tyres scrub and are way to big, front tyres stick out past the guards, RSM and shiftlight on the dash no spare or jack, lots of Mod plate required suspension mods, but now its been inspected when i take it back they only check what they listed... oh well there bad.

Now that ive calmed down a bit its not a huge deal just a rather large expensive **** around, id rather be putting the money towards my non adr approved supercharger :D

spotted a tidy black 34 tailgating me on gympie road. Had personalised plates, silver lip and some kinda F&F kinda decals on the side....was trying to catch a good glimpse of it from rear view but had to concentrate on peak hour traffic as well...nice car if you're on here! :D

a good way t get that yellow fadedness of your headlights is to put brasso on them rub in, let start to dry then rub off well, brings them up bloody nice,

bad luck with the law man

tried to get me the other week, body kit not 100mm off the ground for one, while i was sitting in it, then when he got me out of the car and tried to show me but it wasnt under 100mm anymore hah

i rolled over like a timid dog and pis5ed on myself bein overly respectful and submissive body language (probationary point) and he didnt get me for anything, hah,

i thought he had me for speeding , and he did, but he let me off,,

roll over and pis5, but only as last resort on your probationary point

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...