Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 266
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

everyone needs to lay off on the racially sensitive remarks no matter how narrow minded and stubborn bkc appears to be.

I actually like BKC. he is a good addition to the forum, and challenges me ot understand google translator better every day.

he certainly is good value and adds character to the forum.

i don't think he's using a translator all the time either BB, some of his posts contain common grammatical errors. sometimes they are just as bad as other forum members. ;)

Hello .

Are there opinions, or information which is the best RB26DETT or VR38TT OR is still too early for such a comparison !!!??? ;)

Thanks ALL :(

hi,

all engines are, in the end judged on how they do the 'job' for which they were designed. the RB26DETT was designed to curb the dominance of the European engines [porche,ferrari,BMW etc] in Gp1 type racing. this it did very successfully. so by that measure it was a very good engine; it has the 'runs on the board'. it is the heart of the Godzilla legend and it created a cult following around the world. it is a famous engine. the new VR3.8 is designed to compete with the super car engines of the world and on paper, it looks competitive/impressive. but it is still only 'on paper' so in my opinion, it has a lot of hard revs to do out in the real world before it can be compared with the RB26.

let's have this discussion in five years time; if the new engine has created a global cult following, if has been given it's own mythical reptillian designation and doesn't meekly take the Godzilla label to gain undeserved 'street cred', then it will have drawn level with the RB26. now to get past the RB26, I think most will agree, is going to take some pretty serious motoring.

having said that, I have just returned from Japan where I made a point of going to a presentation of the new RB35 and later to the Nissan showroons to view the six new colours. for those that are not impressed with the car after seeing only photos I suggest you wait untl you see it in the flesh; this is a seriously beautiful and muscled-up car. also sat down and watched [in the showroom] the video of the car's Nurrburgring trial; powerful!!.

regards

Sorry for the long post.

RB26dett:

Sand cast iron, closed deck engine block

As already stated inline 6 (&V12) engine layout has perfect balance, and is even firing.

Some inline 6 engines do have torsional vibration problems due to length of the crankshaft, but this can be overcome with good design.

VQ35de

High presure die cast alloy, open deck engine block with cast iron cyclinder liners.

60 degree V angle. A 60 degree V6 in even firing (unlike a 90 degree V6 which needs splayed crankshaft journals in order to be even firing)

But a 60 degree V6 still has end to end vibration.

for more info on this try http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm

The open deck engine block is weaker than a closed deck engine block. However VQ's have been reliably boosted, proving how strong this design can be if designed and manufactured properly.

High pressure die cast engine blocks can also sometimes have problems with porosity.

VR38dett

What we know:

alloy block, plasma coated alloy cyclinder liners

95.5mm bore, 88.4 mm stroke

The engine could be a VQ35hr (or VQ40de) engine block with different liners and rotating assembley.

Or

As stated the engine is said to be based on the racing engines.

Modern racing engines tend to use the lost foam casting method. This method is very accurate with complicated shapes, is consistant and parts tend to have better finish than sand casting (also no chance of a stray sand particle going though your oil system) Lost foam also has the advantage of lower tooling investment, allowing production to be more flexible.

So if the engine really is based of a racing we are talking about a very very VERY serious piece of kit.

BRING IT ON

Cheers

P.S. I do also mourn the end of the inline 6. L28 with twin SU's and extractors sounds soooooo horny

thats funny, Edwin happens to know a few things, and one of them things Edwin knows is, its how many cams you have in your engine, it how you race your coor.

you better learn that......

granny shifting and not double clutchin like you should

you're lucky that 100 shot of NAWWWS didn't blow the welds on the intake.

now, me and the mad scientist gotta go rip apart the block...and replace the piston rings you FRIED

P.S. I do also mourn the end of the inline 6. L28 with twin SU's and extractors sounds soooooo horny

I too mourn the loss...though the idle coming from my Triple SU'ed holden 202 with a nice big solid cam makes me get over it soon enough =D

Now if I can only get the torry registered ....

hi,

all engines are, in the end judged on how they do the 'job' for which they were designed. the RB26DETT was designed to curb the dominance of the European engines [porche,ferrari,BMW etc] in Gp1 type racing. this it did very successfully. so by that measure it was a very good engine; it has the 'runs on the board'. it is the heart of the Godzilla legend and it created a cult following around the world. it is a famous engine. the new VR3.8 is designed to compete with the super car engines of the world and on paper, it looks competitive/impressive. but it is still only 'on paper' so in my opinion, it has a lot of hard revs to do out in the real world before it can be compared with the RB26.

let's have this discussion in five years time; if the new engine has created a global cult following, if has been given it's own mythical reptillian designation and doesn't meekly take the Godzilla label to gain undeserved 'street cred', then it will have drawn level with the RB26. now to get past the RB26, I think most will agree, is going to take some pretty serious motoring.

having said that, I have just returned from Japan where I made a point of going to a presentation of the new RB35 and later to the Nissan showroons to view the six new colours. for those that are not impressed with the car after seeing only photos I suggest you wait untl you see it in the flesh; this is a seriously beautiful and muscled-up car. also sat down and watched [in the showroom] the video of the car's Nurrburgring trial; powerful!!.

regards

Thank you for your reply

YES This is the correct and proper response.

RB26DETT is the best at least for the time being!! Wait and see what the outcome will be the new engine VR38DETT!! Will be seen in the near future!! :P

Thanks aLLL :rofl:

No the V series have already outdone the RB in terms of making outright power, ~2000hp as been made on drag VQ35s. Heat Treatments in NZ *WERE* going to run the motor from the GTR in their 350Z but with research decided that the VQ was a better motor, and they've pushed an RB further than anyone. A stock standard R35 GTR has already hit the dyno and made power which you basically need a cammed, forged, aftermarket twin turbo etc etc RB26 to make which feels gives you a quite laggy car - VR38 looks like its just yawning the power out.

P1.jpg

Thread:

http://www.nagtroc.com/forums/R35-Dyno-t20782.html

RB26DETT is the best at least for the time being!! Wait and see what the outcome will be the new engine VR38DETT!! Will be seen in the near future!! :dry:

Thanks aLLL :D

in reply to the statement

Fish coffee has packaging DVD ticket, so bunny banana rain really is speaker. Your shed, grass, 4cam 50 cam 600 cam. Grinding at 19000RPM and making turds at the same time.

Thanks aLL

in reply to the statement

Fish coffee has packaging DVD ticket, so bunny banana rain really is speaker. Your shed, grass, 4cam 50 cam 600 cam. Grinding at 19000RPM and making turds at the same time.

Thanks aLL

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????????????????????????? :wave::):):banana:

guys, it's only really funny to make fun of someones english speaking ability for about the first 5 or so pages. after that it gets less and less funny all the time. trust me on this.

No the V series have already outdone the RB in terms of making outright power, ~2000hp as been made on drag VQ35s. Heat Treatments in NZ *WERE* going to run the motor from the GTR in their 350Z but with research decided that the VQ was a better motor, and they've pushed an RB further than anyone. A stock standard R35 GTR has already hit the dyno and made power which you basically need a cammed, forged, aftermarket twin turbo etc etc RB26 to make which feels gives you a quite laggy car - VR38 looks like its just yawning the power out.

P1.jpg

Thread:

http://www.nagtroc.com/forums/R35-Dyno-t20782.html

hahahaha 350z made for drift loooool you can see DVD SHOCK ENGINE 350Z from japan((350Z COMPLETE SHOCK)) !!

I AM SURE YOU ARE MEAN 350Z COMPLETE AFTER MARKET, BODY ! CHISSIS! ENGINE ! TRANSMISSION .etc .

VR38DETT WILL BE SAME 350Z BUT WITH SOME THE DIFFERENCE,,38 TWIN TURBO etc . lool !!!!

TRUST ME ALL !!!!!!!!!! >_<

Thanks aLL .............. :sorcerer:

Edited by bkc

everyone knows the rb26 is better cause only the rb26 can make a car go around a corner so fast, it starves the engine of oil. ruined bearings is solid proof.

*edit - i vote this thread go to wasteland, so it never gets closed"

steve

"50 weight sounds nice....."

Edited by PHATR32
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...