Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After reading alot of threads, posts and infomation from PM's I'm left feeling like my mind is scattered in a thousand directions, kinda like the result of a bull in a china shop.

So I guess I'm after abit of direction.... what better place then here:)

MY GOAL :

RB26 DETT Built to be responsive and very punchy.

Very torque’y through the mid range.

It’s paramount for ENGINE to be reliable AND STRONG.

Its main use will be a street weapon

I currently have :

Tomei Poncams Type B 260 / 260 9.15 lift

Garrett 2860-r turbos

700cc sard inj's

040 bosh fuel pump - intank

Nismo Fuel reg

Apexi Power FC D-jettro

Spitfire coil packs

TRUST FMIC

Sard racing radiator

Full Dual racing N1 spec Kakimoto exhaust. Dual 75mm pipes back to each dump.

Apexi intake pipes and pods

ATM I'm favouring a RB26/30 hybrid for torque and powerband it enables the engine to have. Without having to do insane revs...

Although I have heard a 2.8HKS step 1 stroker kit is very good also...

Any advise from people who actually have such configurations in their GTR's or have some exp in dealing with such engine configerations.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192520-rb26-engine-choices/
Share on other sites

I don't have any personal experience with this since mine is still 2.6L, but if the 3L appeals to you, rather than using an RB30 bottom end (which isn't as strong as the RB26 due to lack of internal bracing), how about an OS Giken 3L kit? It actually uses a big spacer between the head and block, increasing the stroke and retaining the RB26 bottom end.

The HKS 2.8L kit would probably get you what you want if you had smaller turbos (from videos I've seen with 2530 or 2540 turbos) but the OS 3L would get the 28 series or larger turbos spooling much quicker to get your punchy torquey mid-range.

I would personally probably go the OS 3L or HKS 2.8L before a RB26/30 hybrid.

From what I've heard, a HKS V-Cam system (variable valve timing on inlet side) would help in that area also, but I don't know if you can actually get hold of one. On one of my Hot Version DVD's Keichi Tsuchia drives an R34 with it turned off and then turned on, and it made a big difference to the rate of acceleration. It had a TO4Z though.

Good points, but have you actually priced any of these components, i believe an OS 3 lt is in the vicinity of $30k, and the HKS v cam is about $8k, and i dont think its made anymore. If you have the budget, and dont want to stuff around, the stroker cranks are probably the way to go, as they are far simpler than an rb30 conversion

Edited by Adriano

if it was me the hks 2.8l kit would be the way to go, every hybrid rb30 ive seen in a gtr has been a disaster

they usualy foul on everything and have oil issues and alot of them leak oil because of the spacer block for the sump

just my 2 cents

thanx brett

i dont think the os giken 3ltr kit is anywhere near that price, i know otomoto in syd sells os giken stuff, ok i was wrong these things are farkin expensive not 30k but close enough to it here's the link http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/RB30_race_engine.htm

3ltr is 23.500k and the 3.1 ltr kit is 25.500k

and as r32-25t said 3ltr in a gtr has its issues, add an extra 30mm to the top of the engine for the extra capacity and add another 10mm to the bottom of the engine for the spacer plate (only need the spacer plate if you run an rb30 block) you cant really go to far moving the engine up or down in a gtr cause of the front drive shafts, move them to much and you chew the front wheel bearings :)

if you went the os giken way you just have to worry bout the 30mm on the top of the engine, mayby just raise the bonnet a bit if you had clearance issue's so you didnt have to mess with the orientation of the drive shafts.

anyway if i had a gtr and was making this decision id go the hks 2.8 kit, good internals, cheaper than the os kit, not as much stuffing around with the hight etc

hope this helps :glare:

I don't have any personal experience with this since mine is still 2.6L, but if the 3L appeals to you, rather than using an RB30 bottom end (which isn't as strong as the RB26 due to lack of internal bracing), how about an OS Giken 3L kit? It actually uses a big spacer between the head and block, increasing the stroke and retaining the RB26 bottom end.

The HKS 2.8L kit would probably get you what you want if you had smaller turbos (from videos I've seen with 2530 or 2540 turbos) but the OS 3L would get the 28 series or larger turbos spooling much quicker to get your punchy torquey mid-range.

I would personally probably go the OS 3L or HKS 2.8L before a RB26/30 hybrid.

From what I've heard, a HKS V-Cam system (variable valve timing on inlet side) would help in that area also, but I don't know if you can actually get hold of one. On one of my Hot Version DVD's Keichi Tsuchia drives an R34 with it turned off and then turned on, and it made a big difference to the rate of acceleration. It had a TO4Z though.

For the record the Rb30 block is every bit as strong as the RB26, it doesn't lack internal bracing.

Take some time to read up on this forum about this combination and how good it is, you will be plesantly suprised.

there is one crucial part missing here. budget? how much do you want to spend (this will become the min) and how much can you spend (this is your max!).

I mean if money is no object then for me the choice would be:

new N1 or GT block

HKS S3 2.8

enlarged sump

tomei oil pump

HKS 2530s or T04Z

manifolds

dumps

fully ported head, with new springs etc

V-cam

bobs you're uncle but you are now $50K or so poorer.

After reading alot of threads, posts and infomation from PM's I'm left feeling like my mind is scattered in a thousand directions, kinda like the result of a bull in a china shop.

So I guess I'm after abit of direction.... what better place then here:)

MY GOAL :

RB26 DETT Built to be responsive and very punchy.

Very torque’y through the mid range.

It’s paramount for ENGINE to be reliable AND STRONG.

Its main use will be a street weapon

ATM I'm favouring a RB26/30 hybrid for torque and powerband it enables the engine to have. Without having to do insane revs...

Although I have heard a 2.8HKS step 1 stroker kit is very good also...

Any advise from people who actually have such configurations in their GTR's or have some exp in dealing with such engine configerations.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Hi Rob,

I'm in the process of building an Rb30 bottom end for my bunky gtr. I started going down this path some years ago for pretty much the same reasons you are now looking at it.

Really the Rb30 setup gives you a fantastic rod ratio as well as more capacity, so if you build it right you can have a fair whack of an rpm range as well as capacity.

I'm dobbing Sydneykid in for some very good guidance on doing a decent 26/30 build ( PM box will fill shortly --- sorry mate).

Cheers

Dave

HKS no longer sell a Step 1 2.8l kit. Step 3 or nothing anyway. :worship: You might find a Step 1 second hand or old stock but people snap them up from what i've seen. Also you can have a brand new HKS V-Cam system landed for well under $4k forget that $8k price tag. Still mega dollars though.

I personally wouldn't touch a 26/30 hybrid with ten 10 foot poles joined together. A lot of other guys will say the exact opposite though and love them to bits. Each to their own.

For the record the Rb30 block is every bit as strong as the RB26, it doesn't lack internal bracing.

Take some time to read up on this forum about this combination and how good it is, you will be plesantly suprised.

I wasn't saying it wasn't any good, just not AS good.

Just going off info I have read on these forums and magazines, I was lead to believe that the RB26 block had extra internal bracing to handle second (or third? can't remember) order harmonics present in the high end of the rev range (not entirely sure what revs, but somewhere around 8000). The RB30 was never meant to rev past about 7000, so as long as you don't go that far, the extra bracing probably isn't be needed. The RB26 however is designed to rev to over 8000 where second order harmonics are present, so the extra bracing was added to handle it, even as far as 10,000. The same can not be expected with an RB30 block.

Now I don't pretend to know much about engine harmonics, I'm just regurgitating what I've read, so if any of that is off, I'm qhite happy to have it staightened for me :huh:

Edited by EVIL TWIN
there is one crucial part missing here. budget? how much do you want to spend (this will become the min) and how much can you spend (this is your max!).

I mean if money is no object then for me the choice would be:

new N1 or GT block

HKS S3 2.8

enlarged sump

tomei oil pump

HKS 2530s or T04Z

manifolds

dumps

fully ported head, with new springs etc

V-cam

bobs you're uncle but you are now $50K or so poorer.

If funds were unlimited this is waht I would do. The HKS ultimate street car ran this setup with a T04Z and looked amazingly powerful and very driveable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
×
×
  • Create New...