Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got some 18s with 245/40/R18 tyres

the inside of the front tyres scrape on a metal piece (looks like part of the suspension)

It only really does it on hard conering, but is very off putting and Ive put my stockies back on the front.

Spacers kind of worked, but i was thinking about getting some smaller tyres?

is there any easy way to remedy this situation?

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194083-18s-scraping-on-an-r32/
Share on other sites

hitting stuff with a hammer sounds like a good plan to me :ermm:

does anybody know the bit the wheels are scraping on im talking about?

will it matter if i tap this with a hammer?

no, it's a f**king stupid idea.

I'm guessing it's the upright that attaches to the top of the hub and the upper control arm and the tyre is flexing on hard cornering. Which means your wheels must have a shocking offset in order to 1) fit 245's without scrubbing on the guard and 2) sit the tyre in close enough to the upright to give problems on turning.

If it's the bit i'm thinking of then i don't recommend it. Though to be honest i dont think you could do more than dent it as it's a pretty beefy unit.

roll guards, flatten seams, remove inner guards, go for it. don't go anywhere near the arms, hub or uprights with a hammer

No way would I recommend knocking the hubs, swaybars or anything like that either, I was only talking about the guards.

I don't see how a wheel would rub against the hubs or uprights though. Only thing I would see it rubbing is the coilovers or brake calipers.

no, it's a f**king stupid idea.

Haha hey buddy i agree with you there, i dont mean going kamikaze with a hammer on the inside of the wheel area hoping for the best, Ive heard and dealt with enough of these problems to know that most of these issues are small easy fixes, most.

Depends where your problem spot is, get a pic if you can mate we can help you out more.

If your not sure where it is get a crayon or something similar and go over the inside edge of the tyre, or wherever you suspect its rubbing, drive around the block, have a look and see where its hitting..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...