Jump to content
SAU Community

Oils Aint Oils - Or Are They?

gt-v35

By gt-v35,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

gt-v35 Apprentice

gt-v35

Posted
Posted

Is it worth forking 50+ dollars to pay for premium engine oil or are we better off just sticking to the standard ones in the 30-40 mark...

My machanic thinks theres not much difference in that category and more a case of how often it is changed, but i Was thinking of picking up the shell ultra or castrol edge(both are 5w30)...just to be sure...

The manual recommends 5w30 but says 10w30 is alrite too

Im thinking that the oil filter is the same as the 350z as it is the same engine but not 100% sure...is this rite?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194135-oils-aint-oils-or-are-they/
Share on other sites
SLYNE Proficient

SLYNE

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have used Motul Chrono and Comp for months and months once upon a time...

Until my uncle told me to try Nulon 100% synthetic oil, its Oz made and half the price of Motul - his been running this oil in his car which has serious rwkw and hasnt had a problem.

Ive been using this oil for the last 4 oil changes and i believe its good bang for buck, for everyday street use this oil is pretty good but when it comes to the track i dont know how it would rate with Motul

post-29076-1195346505_thumb.jpg

Edited by SLYNE
sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

those oils you mention gt-v35 are too thin for old turbo engines, being used in warm weather and driven hard

mechanic friend of mine recommennds at least 15W50 or 60 weight oil. you'll notice the difference in oil pressure straight away

4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
Posted (edited)

i use 10/40 mobil. but the last service i used the valvoline 15/50 dura blend. iv been told when you use an oil on your car to stick with it, mixing other oils all the time can cause trouble.

does the original user manual/booklet tell you to use syntetic based or sythetic blended oils?

in a magazine write up they tested sythetic based oils and found that they can cause serious problems for your lifters ect.

i will look for the article maybe someone may have mentioned this in another thread.

Edited by 4drftn
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

I used German Castrol 5w40 for the last change, car seems to run fairly smooth, didn't seem to quieten down the lifters too much...

It hasn't got over 85 degrees yet in the GTR but it wasn't been driven too hard. I might be able to go German Castrol 0w30 which would apparently be even better for the engine.

Oh, and read the in-depth discussion here if you want to know what's best for your engine:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...0&start=760

Edit: Oops, most of the info I refer to was R33 GTR. The oil thread is mostly RB engines too, it wouldn't hurt to discuss the V35 info as well.

I didn't know there as a V-series section of the forums...

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted (edited)

sh@un - this is the v35 section, thus "old turbo engines" isn't relevant here :ermm:

i recently did an oil change and used motul 8100 fully synthetic (5w40). car runs great no issues at all

i also used a ryco oil filter part number z436

when i went to repco, they searched VQ35 and had a different part number listed for the z33 and v35, so naturally i got the v35 oil filter which was z436

also when changing oil, its very easy as the filter is right next to the sump nut! the only issue is that you have to remove approx 25 10mm bolts to take the underside cover off just to get to the sump!

a small price to pay for awesome aerodynamics!

Edited by WazR32GTSt
  • 3 months later...
Birth Experienced

Birth

Posted
Posted

I used Castrol Edge Sport which is 5W-30 (as recommended by gt-V35). The car seems to run smoothly, but I can hear one of the lifters tapping a bit.

One question, how much oil did you put into yours? When I emptied mine a little over 5L seemed to come out, so I put the 5L in. I found through-out the whole process (at 2L, 3L and 4L) that I couldn't read the dipstick - there was always alot of oil smeared on it.

Thanks, Ben.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ben, what car are you talking about?

(you have R32 GTS4 in your profile)

when i changed the oil on my V35 coupe, i just put in about 3L, gave it a few minutes to settle then checked it. i did this adding about 500mL at a time from there until it read full

then i started the car, let it run for about 5 minutes, then shut it off and let is stand for 10 minutes

then i read the oil level again and topped it up a little (as oil fills the filter etc after it has been run for the first time)

i then checked the oil level about a week later to make sure it was full and it sure was!

as for reading the dipstick, remember to pull it out, wipe it clean, then insert it fully and take it out again. always read the second time after you have wiped the dipstick. you should easily be able to see the oil level that way

Edited by WazR32GTSt
Birth Experienced

Birth

Posted
Posted

Thanks Waz32GTSt. The trick is to let the engine settle betfore using the dip stick. I found that if I turned it on I couldn't get a dip for a bit. I had to let out a half - one glass of oil as I found that I had over filled it to a bit over the H. Yep, you were right, a little under 5L.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
Posted

I've used Royal Purple for my last change I did my self, and the workshop who did all my fluids on the weekend highly recommend it and use it on all there cars, so i got them to put it in again.

They swear by it and use it in everything from R34 GTR's to EVO's.

It's the only oil I've put in the V35, but I remeber the first change I did and it was a big improvement over what was in there.

Fanta R33GTR Contributor

Fanta R33GTR

Posted
Posted

I've got a 250GT, and i've just done an oil change using magnatec 10w-40. The users manual recommends 10w-40 for the widest range or external conditions, so i figured it was the safest bet.

What do you guys reckon.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
Posted
I've got a 250GT, and i've just done an oil change using magnatec 10w-40. The users manual recommends 10w-40 for the widest range or external conditions, so i figured it was the safest bet.

What do you guys reckon.

I've used 10w 40 in all my changes as well, and have had no probs. We have a warm climate here in Aus so I think the 10/40 is fine.

G7 Collaborator

G7

Posted
Posted
i recently did an oil change and used motul 8100 fully synthetic (5w40). car runs great no issues at all

i also used a ryco oil filter part number z436

when i went to repco, they searched VQ35 and had a different part number listed for the z33 and v35, so naturally i got the v35 oil filter which was z436 ]

Hey War32

I checked this filter number today- it said it was for a Mazda and Subaru! SO I thought Id doubled check again that I had written it down properly. It was only $12 for that one. Sound right?? :)

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

i have tried alot of diffrent oils in my cars over the years, yet for a car i drive hard alot ive found the best to be neo gold, sold at gc corp, i know my cars a 32, yet me and my mates use this oil in pretty much all our cars, silvias, evos, skylines, turbo nxr, golf gti, passat turbo ect

sold here http://www.gccorp.com.au

http://www.gccorp.com.au/automotive/index.php?cPath=54_57

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
Hey War32

I checked this filter number today- it said it was for a Mazda and Subaru! SO I thought Id doubled check again that I had written it down properly. It was only $12 for that one. Sound right?? :)

can't remember how much i paid, it was a while ago

the part number i quoted was 100% for the VQ35 i have it instaleld on my car and it came up in the book

did you check under nissan?

gt-v35 Apprentice

gt-v35

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey War32

I checked this filter number today- it said it was for a Mazda and Subaru! SO I thought Id doubled check again that I had written it down properly. It was only $12 for that one. Sound right?? :(

I changed my oil filter a couple of months back and do remember reading on the box that it would be suitable for Mazda and Subaru. The person at the counter rekons to just ignore the make details.

So far no problems for me :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...