Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just had my highflow r34 turbo blow up and dont want another one so im in the market for a new turbo setup. I've looked at peoples results with the 2530 but want something with more punch and top end.

My car is primarily used for drifting and I already have all the supporting mods.

Who has TD06 kits on their rb20s and which types?

is the 20g kit too laggy? Worth the price tag? Any other turbo suggestions?

Thanks Guys,

Stuart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194267-td06-kits-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift and time attack, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair few on the circuit next year :D

i will post up some dyno graphs for you.

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair ew on the circuit next year :O

As Trent said look at the L2-20G Stu, you wont regret it, only have to look through the Top RB20 thread and see peeps like Troy and Adam and the results.

My car will be running soon so your welcome to drive that to gauge the amount of lag with a similar set up that you would be looking at :D

WIll a TD06-25g be good for an RB25?

Looking at around 300rwkw or would it be best to go the TD07?

td07 is a old T78.... to big, you will see high 400's with a T78. Td06-25g will make 300 depending on housing size. Have a look in the exhaust housing inlet for a number there will be a number between 8-16... this is the exh size in cm2. personally i would use a T67 10cm as i get 280rwkw out of the 8cm T67 on a Rb25 and it makes .7bar as early as 3000rpm!!!! fkn responsive with strong top end.

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift and time attack, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair few on the circuit next year :O

i will post up some dyno graphs for you.

Thanks for that Trent, some graphs would be good! what is rrp on the L2?

I'm not running aftermarket cams or cam gears at this stage...and was told the TD06S-20 might be more suited? thoughts?

As Trent said look at the L2-20G Stu, you wont regret it, only have to look through the Top RB20 thread and see peeps like Troy and Adam and the results.

My car will be running soon so your welcome to drive that to gauge the amount of lag with a similar set up that you would be looking at :D

Thanks Ben, give me a shout when you've got it on the road!

I may look for something else then.

Im after 260 - 280rwkw with this round of mods but end goal is 340 - 360rwkw

I dont want to upgrade turbo again with the next round of mods

Do a search for Bu5ter. He used to run a TD06SH-25G for 330rwkws odd. Made very strong power and car ran 11s.

As for the 20G and RB20. Can someone explain to me the difference with the L2S? My thoughts are the 20G is just about right for the RB20, just bolt it all up and go.

If its true that there are going to be a few more at the tracks next year then i may again get motivated. Its no fun when there isnt anyone out there to play with, and i cant get within cooee of the GTR guys :D

^^ yeah the TD06SH-25g is differrent than the TD06-25g but, the SH will go 10's on slicks (MSA/CREATD 5spd) and 11's on radials as youve posted here is a kit CREATD used on thier workshop car.. just shy of 300rwkw at 1.0bar from memory

http://www.creatdmotorsports.com.au/galler...hp?g2_itemId=34

I may look for something else then.

Im after 260 - 280rwkw with this round of mods but end goal is 340 - 360rwkw

I dont want to upgrade turbo again with the next round of mods

this is two totally different behaving turbos a 360rwkw rb20 is going to be useless to drift as its going to be laggy as all shite and run big boost, 260-280rwkw is easy with a L2 but 300rwkw is a pipe dream. T67 will get 340rwkw but need boost and rpm to do it, all enemys of dorri.

you need to decide drift or dyno queen as the two NEVER work together. regardless of turbo brand or people promise.

ok back to my poor little rb20 snotter now :D I want to see peoples results

LOL...if you do a search there are a few around. I only say that as ppl are probably sick to death of me posting my dyno sheet :O

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Completely Std RB20, cam gears, Power Fc and GTR injectors with Z32 AFM annd complete Greddy TD06-20G setup using an 8cm rear housing. I previously made 234rwkws with this setup. Having another look at the tune netted me the extra 26rwkws, just by removing what i guess was soem of the fat from the tune. Thats not to say the tune is now a grenade, as i have done soem track days and a 3 day motorskhana/track event in it where the car had to endure me anda co-driver....so the tune is still very reliable

LOL...if you do a search there are a few around. I only say that as ppl are probably sick to death of me posting my dyno sheet :O

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Completely Std RB20, cam gears, Power Fc and GTR injectors with Z32 AFM annd complete Greddy TD06-20G setup using an 8cm rear housing

That curve is really quite good! I thought it would be way more laggy! I would have the exact same mods minus cam gears as well. If I start a 2 minute noodle diet right now I could probably afford one for christmas. :D

URAS :D

doh :P rb20 thread with a rb25 infiltrator... f**ked with my head.

T67 10cm or 12cm td06-25g still wont cut it 300rwkw ish maxed, if it is actually a sh-25g 330rwkw is ok.

Below is a R32 RB20 dyno graph. 1.2bar on std rb20 231 corrected rwkw (engine kw is the scale on the graph with more boost) pay no attention to the shape as their scales make it look laggy when actually its really not (the L2 and 06S are very much the same only the L2 is more effecient at higher boost up top.... less roll off). i have also attached a dyno graph of the TD06s-20g on a RB20 you can see it mirrors roys setup only as it runs less boost it only makes 248.8kw

another option is a HKS 2835 56t with 0.61 housing, this works extremely well and i have used these in SR and RB config. (james vahoumis bought my SR HKS 2835 kit and used it in his championship winning s14.5) both Bai and the other D1 drivers prefferred the L2 (like myself) over it though. i also spent alot of time in james cefiro with the HKS 2535 and it was killer street/hills drift but is just too small for serious track drift, 2530's just too damn small.

post-34927-1195449903_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1195450691_thumb.jpg

Tazz - there is a massive thread on it all.

Results, turbos and all the bells and whistles from various users.

If you dont read this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...60r-t58229.html

Your doing yourself great harm :P

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated....

I've been fed a few more options from people...so who has used the 3071R on a 20? It looks like a cheaper option...but would it be too laggy even with the smaller exhaust housing? or worth spending the extra money for the L2 kit and be done with it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...