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On behalf of a mate who has an R34GTT.

What is the most RWKW you have managed to get from an internally stock(pistons and rods) RB25DET, R33 or R34.

Stock RB25DET NEO,

tomei 260 poncams,

plazmaman intake manifold

High mount mainfold with TO4Z

800cc injectors

044 pump

pressure reg

363RWKW @22PSI Dyno dynamics shootout without nos.

Cheers.

Let's make a bet. I'm putting $20 it won't even do a WSID warm-up run

:thumbsup:

So long as it has a thicker headgasket and a good tune it should hold on for a while. I know a few around here who have done them - not sure how it'd relate to the dyno referred to here but the cars in question were running high 120/low 130mph trap speeds.

Im pretty sure whoever built this setup knows how long that sort of boost,turbo,power would last on a stock RB25 otherwise it would have run less boost etc if they were worrying about blowing the engine. He is obviously wondering how much MAX power other RB25 users have made before detonation. Obviously he knows what happens when you run that power through a stock motor. Happy dyno or not that is an Awesome figure & probably a good tuner! Sean let us know how long the setup lasts even if your mate runs low boost settings most of the time..

RB25 FTW!

Why are ppl having a go at him ? I think its awesome its making 486rwhp on a stock engine. Who cares it if might break in the future. Then he can build it. I know multiple rb25's with stock internals making mid 400's hp and been going for a long time as long as the tune is safe.

why would it break?

it will only break if it detonates, if its tuned correctly it will last for a very long time.

maybe it runs race fuel or toluene all the time as a safety measure.

rbs are a well built and engineered engine from factory, unsure why everyone is so paranoid, crap tuning kills them, not power.

If it does break, for god's sake do not rebuild it. Just get another stocker and have another 6 months more fun. Will be cheaper and less headaches.

Oh and like I mentioned before, the rods will be the weak link in the equation.

Wow, this thread got off topic quick. Time to start a new thread with no chit chat or debate, and just #'s (like the dyno stickies). I personaly think it's all in the tune untill around 600bhp when you start getting close to lifting the head or snapping a con-rod. Also, do you guys have a good hp to KW calculator us Yankees can use?

Anywho, with my old setup, I made 400rwhp with a completly stock motor. Stock headgasket, cams, pistons, rods, intake manifold, throttle body, etc with a TO4e @ 1.2 bar (dropping off to around .9 at the end). I ran it like this for around 8 months.

I'm now running a Holset HX35/40 hybrid @ 1.5bar. I haven't had it to the dyno yet (maybe next week) but it feels a good 60-100hp faster with my hyper accurate butt-o-meter. I guess I will find out.

Also, I have a friend who is made 480rwhp with one of those ebay special "Super T70" crappy turbos (although it did last 3 years on 2 different cars before it finaly walked the exhaust wheel into the housing). He also has a completly stock long block, but he has a custom intake manifold made with RB25 runners and a RB26 surge tank, and a Q45 TB. He also beats the snot out of his car and shifts around 8k. I've got money on his blowing up soon, but that's more because of how he treats it. I shift around 7.5k and don't bounce it off the rev limiter doing donuts and burnouts like him. Fun to watch though :D I think we are a little more daring with our cars when a stock long block is $300 USD from any junk yard around here (Okinawa).

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