Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

As the thread title suggests, yesterday a mate and I went out to test drive a series 1 stag. Pretty stock with some nice rims but they were small like 16's, and firmer suspension in the front of the car. Anyway more to the point:

Above about 2500/2800 rpm their was a loud sound coming from the front of the car, it sounded sort of like if I was to put a plastic bus ticket into a fan...?? The car was nice but this sound was extremely off putting, I don't know much about cars but to me I believe its a turbo issue because how it occurs above the 2500rpm mark.

Also under brakes while driving you could feel a shudder through the car? What does this indicate?

Apart from that it was extremely clean. Was the usual small rust spots under the mirrors but none elsewhere. The under body was sweet and the body was immaculate.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers, chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/
Share on other sites

Shudder when braking usually means warped brake disc. Easily machined flat again, usually.

Dunno about the other problem but yes, boost kicks in at about 2500rpm.

Yeah i recon it is the turbo... Poor thing :( . Loved the car mines this noise.. Im gussing it could be pricey to fix aswell. Also had two alarms? Stock and a viper so when you unlock it you had to use the normal stag remote and then the viper remote?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3487682
Share on other sites

the shudder under braking will be the same as any other Mcpherson strut FD car. (bushes, struts, bars etc etc etc) as well as warped brakes, but if the discs are that warped it usually flashes up an ABS problem.

noisy turbos make baby Jeebus cry :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3487849
Share on other sites

turbo gaskets?

Where are you located? If you're in Victoria i'm more than happy to check it out with you and help you identify what it is that is shuddering. If it is a blue car in bayswater, dont waste your time:P

Shuddering can be rotors(i paid under 400 for slotted RDA's all round), Bushes- Swaybar, radius rod, upper/lower arms, I recommend doing adjustable bushes ASAP, and the rest would just be maintenance!

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3488820
Share on other sites

hmmm what did the dealer/seller have to say about it?

He had nothing at all to say about it. He didnt really have much of a clue fullstop.

Where are you located?

Im in South Australia

Does the car have an aftermarket boost controller?

No no af. market boost controller

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489278
Share on other sites

the sound was just a louder than usual sound coming from the enight about 2.5k rmp. So i think its turbo.

As for the shudder as soon as i drove it braking before a corner instantly i noticed that their was a shudder felt in the steering.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489409
Share on other sites

how did the brake pedal feel? Have you heard a turbo spool before?

Yes i've heard a turbo spool before, mate has a 200sx, guy i work with has a 32gtr twin turbo thats off its tits...

As for the brake pedal it felt alright, couldn't really feel the shudder in that felt it more through the steering wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489905
Share on other sites

hmm .. well if the seller has no clue then perhaps get someone to diagnose the sound for you.. then you can work out roughly what it will cost to fix .. then knock that and some more off your offer price.. you could come out ahead if the owner is clueless.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489909
Share on other sites

Yeah the owner is clueless... its his son's car from japan, and his son is over their as he exports cars.... the rust under the mirrors was visible from inside the doors when they are open... not very large but its their how much would this cost to fix?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489916
Share on other sites

this stag sounds like it has some issues... unless this car is stupidly cheap priced maybe you should look for another one... everyday there seems to be more and more on the web for sale... and they are slowly getting cheaper.

except that I got a very good S1 at a good price ($13K) but in hind sight if I know what I know now I would have bought A S2 Neo... you see them as low as $16K

just a thought

antony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194609-test-drove-a-s1/#findComment-3489956
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...