Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently got my turbo hiflowed by gcg, did the whole shebang, injectors,fuel pump, pfc etc..

took it for a tune at Unique, and it turns out that i cant hold boost. they swapped over a r33 gtst actuator and added tension, and according to them, there was a slight improvement holding boost.

they also patched in a profec b ebc, and upped the gain to max, and it held boost much better.

boostvskwqy4.th.jpg

from the graph, you can see:

on high boost, 18psi drops to ~13.2psi

on low boost, 13psi drops to 10 psi

the guys at unique cant figure it out (im sure they would eventually, but i cant afford to keep dishing out money :D)

so im looking for some insight/experiences someone might be able to share.

atm, im looking to upgrade the actuator to a hks adjustable, and also looking into putting in a avcr boost controller.(currently have a dual stage turbo xs boost cont.)

but if i can get some advice before doing that, i can spare myself some cash!!

what do you reckon??

Edited by bikey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194853-r34-with-gcg-hiflow-problem/
Share on other sites

The hks actuator will not provide you with anything that the profec b won't handle. Not at 18 psi anyways.

Cars i've worked on using the usual standard actuator + avcr or profeb b, etc etc all can usually easily hold 18 psi flat.

There is some other problem.

This may sound silly, but try dropping the exhaust. I.e. just run the turbo straight out into the air.

This may sound silly, but try dropping the exhaust. I.e. just run the turbo straight out into the air.

the exhaust heat is too hot... can you imagine the heat generated in the engine bay? lol plus, i dont think any workshops will let me. (ive asked a few)

btw, ive got a split dump pipe running 3 inches throught the front, cat, catback...

and yes, got a Trust FMIC happening...

Edited by bikey

Ok, another option that i've seen with some gcg highflows and other highflows - the catridge is shorter, which means that the wastegate flapper leaks. But i'm guessing that unique already checked this - when you said that they added tension (by bending the rod)

his exhaust isnt restrictive. its got a trust front pipe, hiflow cat and a 3" cat back. his exhaust flows.

its just that on the dyno whenever its given a boot, no matter if its on high boost or low boost it loses around 4psi.

i was having a read about the GCG turbos, when they weld on the wastegate they weld it on with the wrong angle so when you put your wastegate actuator on it makes the wastegate flap open slightly. thats why the extra preload (tension on the wastegate arm) would have helped.

ive got a similar problem with my gcg hiflow and ill be putting a bit of extra preload by bending the actuator arm a bit.

manwh0re, i reckon you should try this too if your turbo isnt stuffed. i remember you telling me that you used to start seeing boost at 4000rpm on your slide hiflow. it may be a similar fault.

Look at eliminating the cat as a restriction point.

$30-40 should see a 3 inch pipe with flanges welded up, and then you're not wasting workshop time and paying more $$ dropping pipes off etc.

If you do a search under a thread by Al, you will find he experienced some high flow performance issues that ended up being exhaust system related.

FWIW, the graphs themselves look quite respectable at the boost levels being achieved (namely dropping).

his exhaust isnt restrictive. its got a trust front pipe, hiflow cat and a 3" cat back. his exhaust flows.

its just that on the dyno whenever its given a boot, no matter if its on high boost or low boost it loses around 4psi.

i was having a read about the GCG turbos, when they weld on the wastegate they weld it on with the wrong angle so when you put your wastegate actuator on it makes the wastegate flap open slightly. thats why the extra preload (tension on the wastegate arm) would have helped.

ive got a similar problem with my gcg hiflow and ill be putting a bit of extra preload by bending the actuator arm a bit.

manwh0re, i reckon you should try this too if your turbo isnt stuffed. i remember you telling me that you used to start seeing boost at 4000rpm on your slide hiflow. it may be a similar fault.

Joe, already did it from the start :wave:

very similar with my slide highflow

I ended up using a cheap 3rdhand GFB stealthFX plumback BOV (helped a little IMO) and awaiting my HKS heavy duty actuator from Nengun, who certainly arnt in any sort of rush to post it out to me

Im hoping the actuator will help me hold the boost better than what it was when tuned.

Is your intake the factory rubber one? perhaps its sucking closed on boost ??

And don't waste your money on fully sick boost controllers, just get yoursself a turbotech one, doesn't spike etc..

I'm using one and it holds 16PSI all day lonng

i'll put it down to the hot side being to restrictive, causing high back pressure on the manifold side of the turbo and forcing open the wastegate.

how much power do you think can be put through an op6 turbine housing, its designed for standard power, sure the highflow wheel will help, but only so far. if you want every last bit possible, get it power ported as well.

a 1 bar actuator might help a bit, but that will become your lowest possible boost setting remember.

hi bikey i had the same issue with my boost dropping at high revs on my high flow ,tuners were stumped until i saw the rubber intake pipe sucking close at high revs, read this it has solved my problem

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lo...87#entry3458787

Edited by OVADRV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...