Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^ your dreaming kid... "with great power... comes no economy" lol

indeed it was on standard boost, i have the readouts somewhere here!

ive never boosted that car man, never felt the need to

now with the gtr i dont think im ever going to lol

Werd to that grasshopper, as Confucius say "With great power comes great fuel consumption"....or as I say "Power=Fuel" :w00t:

how much does a tune cost at dr drift? its in dandeong yea? looking to get more power / economy out of mine.. i get srsly shit all in my n/a.

everyone seems to recommend dr drift i think i'll be going there :w00t:

He is in Brooklyn, just passed the city on the other side of the Westgate.

Edited by abu

just a little update seemed everyone has bigger stock power figers then me :)

so i had a look around my engine and found a disconected vacum hose from the boost solinode that goes into the cooler pipe.

seems to drive better and have more power lol

:)

Would like to see what mine makes just out of curiosity.

GTST with exhaust and boost tap to make it run bout 9 pound.

BTW, I have no idea of the difference between pound, psi, bar, etc. And am not sure that im using the correct term. I think the car runs 7 pound/psi/whatever as stock and now its on 9.

But im guessing around the 150 mark atw considering no front mount at all.

$120 mate he charged me for a full diognostic it sure was interesting :D

Whats involved in a full diagnostic? I have had my R33 for 4 weeks now and want someone to go over it with a fine toothed comb, then dyno it.

i went in today for a diagnostic coz my car always misfires. he suggested spark problem so i'll have to get onto that. while i was there my stock r33 made 140.1kw while stuttering lol. he said it wasn't a power run though or something like that. dunno wat that means? anyway attached a pic i took of the screen

post-2214-1196255936_thumb.jpg

i went in today for a diagnostic coz my car always misfires. he suggested spark problem so i'll have to get onto that. while i was there my stock r33 made 140.1kw while stuttering lol. he said it wasn't a power run though or something like that. dunno wat that means? anyway attached a pic i took of the screen

140 will make a few more when you sort the sparking issue...

fark my lemon i cant belive i forgot to hook up the vacum hose to the cooler from the boost solinoid its beeen off since i thought a fixed the leak and ran it on the dyno with it off too, :P

it seems to have more power and spool faster then i heard another hiss like a blow off valve while on boost farken old hoses.

ill have to go though every last hoes now......................

it seems like i get the hoses under normal boost pressure and the air finds a new weak spot in the system to escape.

when i bought this thing i tramped down some road and it sucked me on the seat and felt bloody awsome seemed to just keep pulling i loved it........

so i know what it can do arrrrrhhhhh :P

sometimes some 'stock' cars can seem to make more power than other 'stock' cars due to a leaning out fuel pump. I know cos this was the case with mine... Dealer just told me it was a 'freak' and that some just made more power - all it was doing was running lean..........

...looking to get more power / economy out of mine.. i get srsly shit all in my n/a.

I've seen so many people go and put extractors on, get their engines tuned up, do custom air intakes and exhaust systems, etc all in the name of getting 'better economy'...

This *might* work *if* you drove using the same amount of power as before, but with less fuel being consumed... but from experience if you have more power, you tend to use it... so worse economy!

i do suburban driving and drive about 30 mins to work and back and im lucky to get 200 k's from my tank, yeah i put my foot down a bit but not all the time it should be better economy then this..

i thought a dyno tune could possibly fix this problem..?

Edited by 4Door_33GTS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering.  In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask,  how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ???      
    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
×
×
  • Create New...