Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep, so i finally got done in the 7yrs of owning the car. just minor stuff that i should have kept on top of but a bother none the less....bad uneven wear on all tyres and my exhaust pipe too low. Ive got a dual N1 exhaust and that second pipe is a bit of a pain to tuck up. The $180 fine hurts abit too..ha.. ah well should have tried my luck and asked for a warning.

but back to the noob question, the box ticked says i need a roadworthy cert, where do i get that from? just the local mechanic? so do i just fix the stuff, get a cert and go to vic roads to clear whatever defects were listed. will they look for other good bits that werent listed in the defect?

can anyone recomened a good place in S.E burbs to get wheel alignments and camber kits installed? the only place i can think of is traction tyres.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195173-how-do-i-clear-a-defect/
Share on other sites

They need to be a licensed RW tester, not all mechanics are. Depends on how good a friend your mechanic is as to how much other stuff they want to pick on as unRW. And there's usually at least one bush or bearing that needs to be replaced, sometimes it can be bad/expensive though with leaks and so forth.

Just get your car into a RW place asap so you have more time to fix the unRW items. You have 30 days from the date of the original inspection to clear everything or you have to pay another $50 RW inspection fee. Then take your RW notice to VICRoads and they will measure your exhaust clearance (don't go to Carlton). Maybe they'll have a look at your tyres but they shouldn't be looking under your bonnet etc caus you will already have a RW cert.

I went to Carlton for height and they were real pricks about it, I went somewhere else the same day after emptying the entire car and because it was about 2mins before closing he barely even looked before ripping off the sticker.

anything suspension related I recommend going to Centreline Suspension in Thomastown, but depends how far you want to travel.

tell me about it...ha. was it really worth a defect notice?

i hate it how they make it soo obvious that theyre gunnin for ya, expecially when they chuck a U turn to chase you down. i have to say though, the officer didnt bust my balls which was good, he was just pointing out the obvious.

thanks kaz. i might just try popin in close to closing time..ha. as far as i know the car is in tip top shape but will find out soon enough when i go for the WRC.

Some mechanics will fix your defect + issue you a roadworthy, problem is finding such a helpful mechanic haha

If you're only looking for a RoadWorthy place, try the one on cnr jacksons and eagle drive in Noble Park.

Its a mechanic attached to a petrol station, next to a milkbar, charcol chicken place :worship:

Pretty sure Mavric and other sau members take their car their for roadworthy's.

In regards to suspension, +1 for Traction Tyres, got my camber, castor etc fitted there last week

I ended up taking my car to vicroads 4:30pm on Friday.

Lady came out and didnt even check the tyres and passed me lol

minor defect's pretty easy to fix, just fix the items specified on the defect notice, get a RWC and take it into vicroads. its all done over the counter n takes about 5 mins.

minors dont even need a rwc cert.. my brothers one had a minor for a parker globe and height.. so i jacked it up n put a globe.. right as rain

if the rwc req box is ticked than he needs a roadworthy regardless if minor or major

My last fine was $188 or something for driving an unroadworthy car, which i don't really understand how they can do that, as you'd think they would have to prove that you knowingly drove it while it was unrwc..

yeah the fine was just a cheap shot really. the car is 350-355 all round so it isnt rediculously low or anything. i was gonna lower the back to 340-345 to even it out but having second thoughts about it now. uneven tyre wear and a low exhaust pipe. wouldn't have thought it would be a major defect but it apparently was.

im getting the car booked in for new tyres, fix the rear camber and remounting the exhaust if needed. might have to get the exhaust brackets re-welded back on to get the extra clearance which is a pain. i just love my exhaust too much to change it...ha will be eating dry noodles for a while, cant afford the hot water..lol

hmmm i got defected for worn tyres as well ages ago... my fault, I kinda tried to squeeze every dollar out of my tyres... but I didn't get a fine, just need to get a RWC. new tyres and a $50 RWC n i was good to go.

I think the defect, although unfortunate as it seems, provide a good opportunity for you to make your car better and safer will appropriate changes... however, if you are finding it hard to get a full RWC... let me know and I can hook you up with more "lenient" testers for the sake of getting your car back on the track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...