Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

My coolant overflow bottle is filling up and spitting coolant out of the "hole" on the very top of the bottle.

Last weekend when i gave the car a bit of full throttle action i noticed that the stock temp gauge was sitting just between the half way mark and the full mark, so pulled over but left the car running, couldnt see any coolant spilling from any pipes anywere, but the overflow tank was completly full (didnt overflow though) so i drove the car back home very slowly.

One thing i have noticed is that when the car is up to full temp the radiator pipes are never hard (pressurised) ,in my old car the top radiator pipe would always be hard as a rock, mine is soft and almost feels like its empty, so i thought maybe the radiator cap is stuffed, went out and bought a new cap which changed nothing, pipes still soft and coolant overflow bottle is filling up.

The coolant system is always full and i check the level all the time, there are no leaks anywere at all, the waterpump and thermostat are nissan items that were replaced about 6months ago.

Any ideas what the problem could be? im thinking possibly a blocked radiator?

Any suggestions would be awsome

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196137-coolant-overflow-bottle-overflowing/
Share on other sites

At a guess I'd say your pressurizing the cooling system ! do you get any hydrolic lock on start up ???

What exactly do you mean by hydrolic lock on start up?

The car starts and drives perfectly.

By the way, i forgot to mention that after the stock water temp gauge went between medium and high i went home and plugged in my power fc (still on the stand base tune) and went for a very slow/quiet drive , the water temp sat on 95deg most of the time, which seems a bit high to me?

I have the same problem except mine just blew the radiator recently. Get under the car and check for leaking welsh plugs. I replaced the radiator cap and kept topping up the motor and flushing it until I realised it was a stuffed welsh plug which would suck air back into the motor which caused a massive pressure build up when I turned off the motor.

(I happened to accidently pop mine into the block so I wouldn't do what I did to repair it)

he has already changed the cap. what about a air lock? when you go out to the car of a morning (or anytime where the car has sat for 6-9hrs) is there anything on the ground?? leaked coolant? trace it back to where its comming from.

1. get your radiator flushed (specially with summer now)

2. check all welsh plugs and hoses for leakes

and hoses arnt spose to be rock hard, go to repco or somewhere and feel new hoses :whistling:

he has already changed the cap. what about a air lock? when you go out to the car of a morning (or anytime where the car has sat for 6-9hrs) is there anything on the ground?? leaked coolant? trace it back to where its comming from.

1. get your radiator flushed (specially with summer now)

2. check all welsh plugs and hoses for leakes

and hoses arnt spose to be rock hard, go to repco or somewhere and feel new hoses :whistling:

The car never leaks coolant ever, the only time it has leaked coolant was yesterday when the overflow oveflowed lol.

I will give the car a flush today and change the coolant

I meant the hoses are spose to be hard when the car is at full temp and the coolant system is pressurised, lol , but mine are always soft when the car is at full temp, probally because most of the coolant run into the oveflow tank and then overflow, hence not much pressure in the system because there is hardly any water actually in the motor.

I've had 2 cars that have done this, it was headgasket both times.

I hope not lol, but somehow i dont think so, as the car isnt blowing any white smoke, its not losing coolant apart from when it spews its out the overflow, the car still runs perfect.

thermostat may not be opening fully or siezed partially open

Thermostat is about 6months old and was a brand new nissan item which was replaced when i got the waterpump/cambelt etc etc done.

Looks like i may have found the problem!

Took out radiator and the top and bottom radiator hoses today, coolant was suprisingly nice and clean, but the top raditor pipe was full of rusted metal crap, the big nipple on the intakemanifold were the top raditor hose connects to has rusted away at the front of the nipple (see pic) which has obviously been rusting for a while sending rusted grunk crap threw the motor/radiator etc etc, which has probly blocked the radiator causing the car to overheat, the bottom of the overflow tank was full of brown rusty water which i didnt spot before hand.

Possibly one of the previous owners didnt use antifreeze, or not enough antifreeze which has caused the steel nipple on the intake mani to rust pretty quickly, hence causing my problems.

I will try and give the nipple a bit of a clean up and get most of the rust off, then flush the whole system heaps times, instead of get the stock radiator flushed/cleaned i might get an alloy one instead (will help with cooling when i start doing some track racing) ,and some new coolant ofcourse, i will update this thread when i have everyhing back together and hopefully fixed.

Pics of rusty nipple!

100_2024.jpg

100_2026.jpg

100_2027.jpg

Cheers for your help :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Turns out the radiator isnt the problem (i dont think).

Got the car running tonight (new alloy radiator and coolant) and had it idling while i was toping up the radiator wating for the thermostat to open, the car was idling for atleast 20mins, but the thermostat never opened, the water level of the radiator hardly dropped even when the car was up to full temp, the bottom radiator pipe stayed cold so im guessing the thermostat isnt opening.

That should have been the 1st thing i shouldve taken out and tested, i just ruled it out because its only about a year old genuine nissan item, not sure how it can all of a sudden go faulty, seems weird to me, the car was running fine and didnt overheat after nissan had replaced the thermo,waterpump/cambelt etc etc.

Anyway, what brand of thermostats do you guys use? im not really to keen on getting another nissan one if its just going to go faulty again (i bought the nissan thermo in the 1st place because if thought it would be the most reliable one, i guess not).

Cheers

you have a blown headgasket

Why do you say that?

The car does not blow white smoke, it does not use water, there is no oil in the water, there is no water in the oil and the car runs perfect! i dont have any of those issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstah, no, coilovers aren't illegal, especially as a bolt straight in. The illegal part will be if they're altering suspension geometry beyond factory limits, or the ride height is not legal.   Sounds like the blue slipper just didn't want to deal with any later possibility of mods appearing on the car.
    • The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station.  This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.
    • Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors?  With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible?
    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW ) Edit: I checked. They aren't. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-infosheet-light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...