Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i have had my car for about 2 weeks now and everyting is going good except the fuel economy. when i brought my car i was believing that i was buying an RS4 V. seeing as i have only had the car a while i have been driving pretty nicely. well did i get the shock of a life time today when i was so pissed off with traffic that i just pulled into a small gap (im getting used to the extra power) planted my foot and holly shit the back end stepped out so far that i was looking out the passenger window to see where i should be going. i was thinking ok the front wheels should be getting some power down and this shouldnt be happening. so when i got home i looked under the front end and what do i see, nothing, absoloutly sweet f/a. no drive shafts or even a spot for them to go in through the front discs. what the hell sort of car am i driving i was under the impression that there was no such thing as an RS V as i have every factory option under the sun except for a sun roof. i payed $20,000 for this car that has only 60,000km so i want u guys to tell me "did i get stuffed around or what" or do i still have a good car. i really wanted an AWD which is why i nearly brought a WRX i know the guy who owns the import yard but i want to get u guys opinion before i blow my lid at him first. sorry about the essay guys, cheers.

ps if u look for a topic titled hi guys u will see pics of my car but i dont that will help much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gu....html&st=20

nice looking car!

Check to the left of your steering wheel, centre locking diff button, or TCS? when u turn the keys to acc, do u get an 4wd light on the dash? also post your VIN number and hopefully someone will FAST it.

-RYan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3513900
Share on other sites

you handed over $20k for a car and you didn't even take a quick look underneath it to make sure it was the version you wanted first? :P

You still have a good car,it's just not what you expected. some guys on here would prefer your version. you have to decide now how important 4wd is to you,as that will detemine whether you sell the car for a different model or not.

Justin...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3513981
Share on other sites

must have a little poke to step out that much...

The car would be lighter and that would be a plus for sure... she looks the part as well... I'd say you got a nice car.

As Ryan said get the VIN posted and FASTed... you may have a case if you where ripped... but get the facts first before talking to the seller. Maybe even legal advise if you where misled... it is $20K afterall.

If you where going to offload it I would do it soon... seems to be heaps of Stagea's comimg in and the prices seem to be dropping and promote the fact it is a RWD some people like that idea... be a great towing wagon.

It is easy to get stuffed around with an import with little knlowledge and keen to get your hands on it. I was told mine was a series 2 but then I got it so cheap it makes sense it was a series 1... $13K I handed over... would have been a steel if it was a S2.

Antony

Edited by ant0ny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514036
Share on other sites

Dude, the suspension mounts and everything are completely different on the RWD stageas. You can tell the 2WD from the 4WD just by opening the bonnet. :P

The best advice I can offer is to go over the paperwork very carefully and see if the car was listed as an RS4 or AWD anywhere on the bill of sale or rego papers. If it is, you will have some comeback to the seller (who MUST have known what he was selling, especially if he complied it)

Other than that, just enjoy the fact that you have something a little different, and revel in the fact that you could do a manual conversion a lot cheaper/easier than most on here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514070
Share on other sites

My understanding is that if you buy.. anything.. for an intended purpose and the seller is aware of this...he is then liable if the item cannot for full this purpose.You would need to consult a solicitor to make sure of your rights.The dealer should be bending over backwards to make sure you are fully satisfied as his rep is on the line and the import game is not that big that he can afford to get such basic stuff wrong.I bought my RS4 sight unseen and would have been mighty pissed If I had got a RWD..Although some guys like the RWD gig...if you wanted a 4WD and it was clear that the dealer knew this...(written of not) I would be pursuing a resolution.Figure out what YOU want and remember to deal with the dealer in a calm but decisive manner.

Hope it all works out for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514147
Share on other sites

well i have had my car for about 2 weeks now and everyting is going good except the fuel economy. when i brought my car i was believing that i was buying an RS4 V. seeing as i have only had the car a while i have been driving pretty nicely. well did i get the shock of a life time today when i was so pissed off with traffic that i just pulled into a small gap (im getting used to the extra power) planted my foot and holly shit the back end stepped out so far that i was looking out the passenger window to see where i should be going. i was thinking ok the front wheels should be getting some power down and this shouldnt be happening. so when i got home i looked under the front end and what do i see, nothing, absoloutly sweet f/a. no drive shafts or even a spot for them to go in through the front discs. what the hell sort of car am i driving i was under the impression that there was no such thing as an RS V as i have every factory option under the sun except for a sun roof. i payed $20,000 for this car that has only 60,000km so i want u guys to tell me "did i get stuffed around or what" or do i still have a good car. i really wanted an AWD which is why i nearly brought a WRX i know the guy who owns the import yard but i want to get u guys opinion before i blow my lid at him first. sorry about the essay guys, cheers.

ps if u look for a topic titled hi guys u will see pics of my car but i dont that will help much.

Hi, Yeah there is such a thing as an RSV, it is also part of the Type B range in the series 2. These cars are indeed 2WD. So the corect name of your car is a TypeB 25t RS-V.

Like everyone says you may have some come-back if it was advertised as an AWD or RS4.

The finishes are similar on most cars. The Stagea has 20 models from 3 different series. These are XG, RS, and Type B. The Type B has only 2 models 25t RS-V, (yours 2WD auto and and the 25t RS4-S (4WD manual).

I hope that this helps. If you want to PM me I'll send you the excel spreadsheets of all models. I have one for specs (dimensions engine, etc) and one for options, (interior finishes and other options).

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514172
Share on other sites

AND the fact that it stepped out so fast would indicate to me there is probably an LSD in there!

YEEHAA! now that your expecting it .. just drive a bit more mellow , and when its wet get out there and bust some skids ! YEEEHA! they are supposed to be very easy to keep under control ( cause of the long wheelbase )

do you know if it has an aftermarket turbo ? or what PSI its running

maybe the boost controller is building boost too fast and thats what made it pop out so badly!?

or maybe you have some 500Hp monster under there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514192
Share on other sites

Hi, Yeah there is such a thing as an RSV, it is also part of the Type B range in the series 2. These cars are indeed 2WD. So the corect name of your car is a TypeB 25t RS-V.

Like everyone says you may have some come-back if it was advertised as an AWD or RS4.

The finishes are similar on most cars. The Stagea has 20 models from 3 different series. These are XG, RS, and Type B. The Type B has only 2 models 25t RS-V, (yours 2WD auto and and the 25t RS4-S (4WD manual).

I hope that this helps. If you want to PM me I'll send you the excel spreadsheets of all models. I have one for specs (dimensions engine, etc) and one for options, (interior finishes and other options).

John

So what u are trying to say is that all RWD stageas are Type B cars......Considering mine a RWD and has all the fruits, would have to say it ain't a Type B spec.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3514989
Share on other sites

is it true that the N on the wgn denotes 4wd (you guys with 2wd will be able to clarify) i was under the impression that wgn meant wagon but talking to a compliancer he says that no N is 2wd. obviously you have a 2wd check your vin ....... is it wg something something something

anyway hope it works out all good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3515326
Share on other sites

you are close Leigh, W is for wagon, GN is for RB25 + AWD (either turbo or na) and c34 is the model designation so a 2WD RS will have a vin that starts with WGC34.

I am going to go out on a limb and suggest you are actually the proud owner of a 25t RS V

go here for full specs on this (and all other) model

http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/nissan...a/1998_8/21838/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3515475
Share on other sites

So what u are trying to say is that all RWD stageas are Type B cars......Considering mine a RWD and has all the fruits, would have to say it ain't a Type B spec.

The type B was built "Pure for Customize"[sic] which came with steel wheels, no stereo, ready for the owner to make their own additions (see picture.)

post-37588-1196855067_thumb.jpg

not all rwd stageas are b's

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Stagea#Models_2

Edited by ステージア
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3515847
Share on other sites

well to be honest i think i was just a little bit pissed to start out with but after thinking about it i dont really have a huge reason as to why i would prefer a AWD over a RWD. if i was going to race it or something then yeah. its has a vin of WGC......... so yeah its definatly only a RWD. it just really took me by suprise and about the back end stepping out so far and it nearly caused an accident but i am not new to fast RWD cars and like someone said they are really easy to correct and get back straight. i am a proud owner of an 25t RS V. i will check this weekend if it has an lsd but other than that my car is really stock but with alot of options like TCS an itegrated touch screen tv climate control system and the 6 speaker system etc. i rang the importer and he was really shocked as he new i was tossing up over a legacy or stagea but he said that he just assumed i new what i wanted so he has said he would service my car or free for 24 months. thanks guys for your help.

ps the cat back exhaust that ordered last week will that still fit even though i ordered it thinking it was an AWD? also i was looking at the nengun site and would really like to invest in a set of coil-overs can someone sugest a place here in oz to get a good suspension package. if im going to have a back end that steps out i dont want the body roll making it harder to control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3515934
Share on other sites

The type B was built "Pure for Customize"[sic] which came with steel wheels, no stereo, ready for the owner to make their own additions (see picture.)

post-37588-1196855067_thumb.jpg

not all rwd stageas are b's

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Stagea#Models_2

nice rims!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3516039
Share on other sites

well to be honest i think i was just a little bit pissed to start out with but after thinking about it i dont really have a huge reason as to why i would prefer a AWD over a RWD. if i was going to race it or something then yeah. its has a vin of WGC......... so yeah its definatly only a RWD. it just really took me by suprise and about the back end stepping out so far and it nearly caused an accident but i am not new to fast RWD cars and like someone said they are really easy to correct and get back straight. i am a proud owner of an 25t RS V. i will check this weekend if it has an lsd but other than that my car is really stock but with alot of options like TCS an itegrated touch screen tv climate control system and the 6 speaker system etc. i rang the importer and he was really shocked as he new i was tossing up over a legacy or stagea but he said that he just assumed i new what i wanted so he has said he would service my car or free for 24 months. thanks guys for your help.

ps the cat back exhaust that ordered last week will that still fit even though i ordered it thinking it was an AWD? also i was looking at the nengun site and would really like to invest in a set of coil-overs can someone sugest a place here in oz to get a good suspension package. if im going to have a back end that steps out i dont want the body roll making it harder to control.

PM SydneyKid for suspension!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3516040
Share on other sites

well to be honest i think i was just a little bit pissed to start out with but after thinking about it i dont really have a huge reason as to why i would prefer a AWD over a RWD. if i was going to race it or something then yeah. its has a vin of WGC......... so yeah its definatly only a RWD. it just really took me by suprise and about the back end stepping out so far and it nearly caused an accident but i am not new to fast RWD cars and like someone said they are really easy to correct and get back straight. i am a proud owner of an 25t RS V. i will check this weekend if it has an lsd but other than that my car is really stock but with alot of options like TCS an itegrated touch screen tv climate control system and the 6 speaker system etc. i rang the importer and he was really shocked as he new i was tossing up over a legacy or stagea but he said that he just assumed i new what i wanted so he has said he would service my car or free for 24 months. thanks guys for your help.

ps the cat back exhaust that ordered last week will that still fit even though i ordered it thinking it was an AWD? also i was looking at the nengun site and would really like to invest in a set of coil-overs can someone sugest a place here in oz to get a good suspension package. if im going to have a back end that steps out i dont want the body roll making it harder to control.

Yeah it's true that not all 2wd are type B, and Dale (Stinky Rooster) has it pretty right with the models. Most of the RWD models can't be imported as they are from the other ranges RS & XG with non-turbo or RB20's.

So that's why the RWD is less common in Australia. Pretty common in NZ though, so if you ever need parts, you might try www.trademe.nz (ebay for kiwi's).

All I do know is that there is nothing like planting your foot on a wet road, getting on boost on a corner and the car feels like it's on rails (4wd). It's a very complex intelligent sytem, which IMO is one of the main reasons that I bought the Stagea.

BTW the rating on your car's fuel economy is the best in the range. 9.2l/100km other series 2, 9.4l/100km.

It will have an LSD for sure, std fitment to RWD with RB25-DET.

Enjoy it anyway, you still have one excellent car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3516330
Share on other sites

And this is why we all get confused...... I just realised that there are 2 models within the RS range, that could also be yours, the 25t-RSV (Prime edition) you'll know this from the wood and leather interior. Or it could be a 25t RSV (ordinary type cloth interior).

That's why the 2 spec sheets need to be read together..... then it's simple (not)!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196322-oh-so-confussed/#findComment-3516592
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...