Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeh, car seen headin to woodside with no plates and on stockies........not good.

no one would know the house its an investment property we have had for 3 weeks, just fixing it up to rent out. my fiance lives there and i come past every now and then cos workin on house. it seems its the same 'group' of ppl that have done the break ins and car thefts this morning in the same area.

Bit worrying if they do :S Wonder if its the same dudes that stole those others with house break ins involved..

Any news Fadie?

yeh, car seen headin to woodside with no plates and on stockies........not good.

no one would know the house its an investment property we have had for 3 weeks, just fixing it up to rent out. my fiance lives there and i come past every now and then cos workin on house. it seems its the same 'group' of ppl that have done the break ins and car thefts this morning in the same area.

Suckz dude. If only my clutch wasnt fuxd, i'd be out there looking for it all weekend..

Just pisses ya off, pisses me off and its not even my car. Just knowing these f**kwits are out there driving around in your car, hope they get whats coming to them!!

Anyhow, once again, goodluck..

Edited by GTR-32

Thats soo f***d up man, I still haven't heard anything about my brothers R33 that was stolen 1 wk before yours wednesday morning too. House got broken into aswell to get the keys. Car rolled down the street to before starting.

So hope your car is found too mate, hopefully alot of other ones will be found with it.

I'll keep an eye out for you too mate. :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Most stolen Skylines never turn up I am afraid.

Found out a girl who works at my dentists had her newly painted R33 stolen from the front of her house in Greenwith over 6 months ago and has not been seen since.

I still hope for your sake it turns up mate. Some are lucky.

  • 5 years later...

Had two policies on car. One for car and one for mods. As they said at the time (remeber this is 07) that due to mods it needs to be two seperate policies rather than agreed value.

Long story short, only paid out for car at market rate (mime had 7k paint and body work). As they said cant pay out modifications policy as it was not recovered. Noting that my mechanic wrote a statutory declaration with his business name that parts were fitted; receipts and dyno graphs.

So i will never use them again. I have definately made them lose thousands and thousands in business. Again my experience will differ to others, this was my experience.

Umm that is interesting. I had a policy with them a while back now and they had everything under the one policy. Things might have changed from 07 to 09 but still rather interesting as to they made you get out 2 policies for the one car.

Thats y you always ask for agreed value and dont take no as an answer, the sales person who stiched up that deal got paid on 2 policies and was probably fired later on for costantly getting people to sign 2 policies for 1 car.

Thats y you always ask for agreed value and dont take no as an answer, the sales person who stiched up that deal got paid on 2 policies and was probably fired later on for costantly getting people to sign 2 policies for 1 car.

Yep, i believe it was 2 policies just to get a "sale". But agreed means f all....i lost $5k with H2P (raa).

That is why you check your policy every time it comes up for renewal. The Agreed value of the car won't stay at lets say $15k over 3 years. It will keep dropping. Very similar to market value but with market value you have no idea what it is. At least with agreed value you have a fair idea of what you are getting.

That is why you check your policy every time it comes up for renewal. The Agreed value of the car won't stay at lets say $15k over 3 years. It will keep dropping. Very similar to market value but with market value you have no idea what it is. At least with agreed value you have a fair idea of what you are getting.

This was within the same year/policy....before renewal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...