Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone take a guess at how much horsepower this setup will make at the crank? I am almost finished building this.

Its a stock bottem rb20det with:

greddy e-manage

greddy profec e-01 (boost)controller

greddy fmic

hks gt2530 turbo

hks turbo elbow and 2,5inch exhaust

hks oil coolerkit

tomei camshafts 8.5mm 256 degrees

tomei adjustable cam gears

tomei head gasket 1.2mm

nissan ecu with chip for 444cc, gt3530, z32.

nissan z32 afm

nissan gtr 444cc injectors and walbro fuelpump

Jun-style front facing plenum (machined/ported), stock throttlebody

apexi airfilter

koyo radiator

My questions (a guess would be fine as answer):

What kind of boost would be safe on my setup? 1.5bar?

Is the 2,5inch exhaust a restriction? If so, of what kind?

What kind of power should I expect at the crank?

What will be a wise rev-limit to choose?

At what rpm will it make full boost?

What would be your next upgrade?

I thank anyone who takes the time to read and answer this very very much! Please excuse my poor English.

Edited by ivosp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/
Share on other sites

I'm looking for about 240kw on the wheels. Is this possible with this turbo? What upgrades are needed? What kind of rev limit should i program?

What kind of power gains should be expexted from a 3inch exhaust instead of the 2,5inch? And what about changing camshafts to hks 9,1mm /264 deg. ?

Edited by ivosp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3518673
Share on other sites

I'm looking for about 240kw on the wheels. Is this possible with this turbo? What upgrades are needed? What kind of rev limit should i program?

What kind of power gains should be expexted from a 3inch exhaust instead of the 2,5inch? And what about changing camshafts to hks 9,1mm /264 deg. ?

Definetly go the 3inch exhaust, as the 2.5inch will become a restriction, Also 1.5bar is a lil high for a stock bottom end, maybe 1.2bar to be safe if you want it to last.

With a decent tune out of the emanage maybe 220kw but I would say around the 205 - 210 mark. As for the rev limit no higher than 7500rpm to be safe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3518846
Share on other sites

Nice setup you have...i'd say around the region of about 220-230rwkw at 1.2-1.3 bar as well...if everything is running well you might be able to get even more...i'd stick to about 1.3 bar anyway as any more you won't make much more power and just end up generating more heat...

Very interested to hear your results when you get them...cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3518886
Share on other sites

I'm looking for about 240kw on the wheels. Is this possible with this turbo? What upgrades are needed? What kind of rev limit should i program?

What kind of power gains should be expexted from a 3inch exhaust instead of the 2,5inch? And what about changing camshafts to hks 9,1mm /264 deg. ?

you wont make 240rwkw with a 2530.

you'll need something bigger, 2535 20+psi at least (bigger than the 2530)

Power gains with exhaust - enough.

You'll be able to run more timing everywhere due to less backpressure, so more response, more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3518938
Share on other sites

My R33 with a HKS 2535 made 244rkw at 14psi tuned by Ben at Racepace with all the supporting mods and an untouched motor.

I agree with Ash and the 2530 not making 240rwkw, i have found with the 2530 and 2535 they will peak at a certain rwkw and then the more boost you put through them you gain massive midrange but not much up top.

They 2535 is a fantastic turbo for the RB25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3518953
Share on other sites

Before this turbo, i had a hks gt2535. But it had the 0,84 a/r turbinehousing. I thought this would make it spool up to slow, so I sold it again. It would have probably be a nice combo with some high lift cams.

The cams/head gasket are the last bit I have to built. What if I swapped these poncams for procams with 10,25mm lift and 260 degrees duration? The only difference is that I then would have to spend about 500 euro extra on solid lifters and some good springs. The head has to go off anyway.

Or will it be an odd combo? I dont read much about these kind of camsetup in rb20's. Will it not work with a small turbo like the gt2530? Or would these 500 euro be better spend on a bigger turbo? I think nice cams do magic for the character of any engine.

I think if I go bigger on the turbo I will probably go for the greddy td06 (s or sh or l2?) or the hks gtrs. Internally wastegated. What would you prefer?

I want to reach this 240kw mark with as much responsiveness and fastspoolup as possible. Aside from a bigger exhaust, maybe a low mount cast iron hks manifold would be nice too. or wont this make much of a difference?

Thanks again for your help!

Edited by ivosp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3519182
Share on other sites

Why are you so set on 240rwkw?

Its give and take. You cant have response if you want certain figures of power.

You'll have blistering response (well, remembering its RB20) with a 2530/2535

But much bigger (to get the 240-250rwkw) and your going to cost the performance.

A car with slightly less power but a turbo with a much better mid range will be much nicer to drive.

Its either that or you bite the bullet and get the Trust TD06 kit ($$, and well covered on this forum) and make ~250rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3519200
Share on other sites

I want to stay on the safe side on stock internals and stock gearbox. I think that would be around the 240kw-250kw I guess. Bigger then gtrs/td06 would probably not be very wise with this stock parts.

Why is it that People rather go for big turbo's then a good camsetup? I suppose a 264degree/10,25 lift upgrade would do a lot for the responsiveness of the laggy rb20. I can problbly also work the head when it's off. That will probably also help me with some kw's. Or will the turbo just not flow anymore power?

Edited by ivosp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3519238
Share on other sites

Hey Mate.

Im doing a build on my 20 going to try for 300rwkw in it going to use the same cams 256/8.5 but gonig with over size pistons so will be looking at a RB21 with a hypergear tr43hf with 023 fuel pump 555cc nismos but not sure on ecu looking at the emanage or going a gtr pfc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3519290
Share on other sites

Ontopic:

A friend of mine has a sr20det with HKS GTRS. Is is going to a bigger turbo and now selling his gtrs. Unfortunately this has a t25 flange. My question is: Can the gtrs turbine housing being swapped for my t3 gt2530 turbine housing? Or does this not fit? I came up this idea because it has exactly the same size:

gt2530r turbine:

Wheel- 76 Trim - 53.8 Major / 47.0 Exducer

GTRS:

Turbine wheel Trim 76Major diameter 53.8 (mm) Exit diameter 47.0(mm)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196543-power-estimate/#findComment-3519424
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...