Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fellas,

As the subject suggests... I got myself a nice HKS SSQV s2 (atmospheric) B.O.V a couple of weeks ago and my car's been stalling like a sick dog for no reason... the sound of the HKS isn't actually top-notch either so I've decided to go back to stock... as I don't want the car to keep stalling and the stock SSHHHHHH sound isn't too bad either...

Was wondering 2 things...

1) Anyone experience similiar issues with Atmo B.O.V's?

2) How do I make my stock B.O.V sound better which makes the nicer and louder sshhhhh sound?

Regards,

Edited by Spunky Munky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196781-r33-stock-bov-the-best-for-the-car/
Share on other sites

Just to save you the flame, have a quick search and you will find many topics about this.

Skylines dont like atmo venting BOVs.

Stick to stock. Theres nothing wrong with it. And if your only after the sound, well... thats another story.

Stock is fine up to a certain point, after that get a stock gtr one

a full plumb back (or atmo, its adjustable) GFB Stealth-Fx bov can be found for near-enough to the price as a gtr unit, if 3rd hand is good for you ;)

works great, bigger turbo holds boost better (was bleeding off too much), and it doesnt sound stupid in full plumb back mode, a little flutter of air reveberation between turbo and afm when you lift off the throttle

ecu with safc (tuned to previous bov) works fine with it

awaiting a hks actuator, so will retry stock bov but I feel that 16psi was a touch too much for it (dropped to 14psi all the time)

Thanks fellas... I guess, there's nothing wrong with going stock... besides, the POD has good stocking and let off sound so it's not too bad (sound wise)... as for the atmo one... man, bleeding and stalling like a biagge.... lol....

Anyone know how to modify the stock one a bit to make it sound better?

Search the DIY section but found nothing.

rev can you link me to the diy mod to make it hold boost?

this one : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&hl=bov ?

"Crushing:

"Crushing" the BOV just means sticking the piece in a vice and pressing the top had down causing the internal spring to shorten and increase pressure on the BOV valve."

will try !! =D

Update: Installed the stock BOV on my car this morning... at first (maybe because the ECU) was still adjusting... it kept stalling... but then after an hour or so, it tuned itself and is running nicely now ... no more stalling... damn, spent a bit on the HKS SSQV and now back to stock... some times it's not worth modifying.... I'll let it run a couple more days before giving everyone a run down. Thanks.

Isn't there an attachment for the SSQV which allows it to be plumbed back?

Although stock is good, its also about 15 years old.

Plumbing back your new one might not be a bad idea... just my thoughts.

R31Nismoid, I he might of been referring to the ECU getting out of limp mode?

Stock ECU is a learning ECU right?

Edited by infamous_t

stock ecu is a learning ecu. if they are reset or things change they adjust accordingly in very minor increments. that would explain the time taken for the car to adjust to the bov change.

rev can you link me to the diy mod to make it hold boost?

this one : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&hl=bov ?

"Crushing:

"Crushing" the BOV just means sticking the piece in a vice and pressing the top had down causing the internal spring to shorten and increase pressure on the BOV valve."

will try !! =D

Err...no. Although it appears that does work for some people I don't know that I'd give that one a crack unless you had a few spare stock BOV's.

The mod involves little bit of a drilling, you should use a vice however to hold things while you drill though.

Someone did post the instructions up some time ago. Will go for a search for you.

my hks ssqv bov never made my car stall. aslong as you keep the standard bov plumback and set up a t-peice in the vac line it will run fine. if you only run a single vac line to the atmo it'll start stalling and what not.

My ssqv replaced the standard bov in the factory position and i don't have any problems using the single vacuum line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...