Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

trying to gather some info on street response turbos for the r34 gtt.

theres alot of speculation but it seems like the gt35r is the way to go.

any suggestions and help would be great.

im after the most usable street response possible.

thanks in advance

Edited by R34NRG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196816-ideal-turbo-for-street-use/
Share on other sites

Do a search for SydneyKid's specs on his R34 GTT using a GCG Hiflow turbo setup making about 270rwkw with stock turbo-like response.

i dont believe any highflow will outbeat a larger size turbo like the gt35 but ill have a look thanks

Edited by R34NRG
i dont believe any highflow will outbeat a larger size turbo like the gt35

I honestly think there are too many people making mongrel-spec highflows with unknown performance. Exhaust housings are limiting in some and not others, a properly designed HKS, Apexi or similar is the way to go.

^^ exactly what i was thinking.

Silly question this really

You cant have both.

A GT35 (as spoken about here dozens of times), is a 300rwkw+ turbo. Its not going to have close to the stock response.

GCG Hi-flow (again, well covered), is a ~260rwkw with almost stock like response.

What do you want, power or response?

like i said above i want response, most street ability possible.

^^ exactly what i was thinking.

Silly question this really

You cant have both.

A GT35 (as spoken about here dozens of times), is a 300rwkw+ turbo. Its not going to have close to the stock response.

GCG Hi-flow (again, well covered), is a ~260rwkw with almost stock like response.

so ur saying the hi flow will out perform a gt35? we all know of turbos that only hit boost at like 7000rpm which is useless and not wat im looking for. but comparing a highflow with a gt35, the highflow may have the advantage hitting boost slightly quicker but i doubt it will make any difference wen the gt35 hits boost.

correct me if im wrong but the gt35 will composate for that second it does lag with the extra amount of power.

again like i said im lookon for response and feedback of course, if ppl have experience where a highflow has outperformed the gt35 let me know.

GT35.....LOL

Ill see you at 5,000RPM shall I......you call that streetable???

5000rpm?!??!? shit maybe im confusing myself with another turbo but i thought id see full boost at like 3800rpm

someone should clear this uip for me lol.

does anyone know how identical the highflows are to makn full boost compared to factory.

Edited by R34NRG
I think what they are saying is for street use, hitting boost at 5k rpm is pointless. Also said above, you cant have both...

i think thers a miscommunication here. i know i cant have response and power. im fine with a little lag, as long as when it does make power it componsates for the lag. im not talking about 5000rpm and starting to make boost.

okai how bout we look at it like this.

"theoretically", over lets say 150-200m a highflow or a gt35. which would finish 1st

call me lame call me a hoon wat ever, i rkn this is the best way to explain to get results lol

300kw+ at the rear wheels is pointless if

- you cant drive

- you have stock suspension

- you cant afford insurance

- you want to keep your licence etc etc

what sort of cars have you driven?

honestly a 200rwkw gtst on the street is fine

you can take down most cars and take anything off the line if you can drive and be responsible

a GT35r on the street is gonna net you seeing 100km++ before it even winds up and goes hard

so youll just amplify any fines, accidents etc you have

a stocker v8 will take you off the line no worries with all the lag you have

then when it comes on boost - youll have wheelspin city

guess it depends - but do what you like dude, no matter what anyone tells you, you will buy what you want

like i said above i want response, most street ability possible.

so ur saying the hi flow will out perform a gt35? we all know of turbos that only hit boost at like 7000rpm which is useless and not wat im looking for. but comparing a highflow with a gt35, the highflow may have the advantage hitting boost slightly quicker but i doubt it will make any difference wen the gt35 hits boost.

correct me if im wrong but the gt35 will composate for that second it does lag with the extra amount of power.

again like i said im lookon for response and feedback of course, if ppl have experience where a highflow has outperformed the gt35 let me know.

In all honesty, use the search function and read some more information.

There is plenty of info, and it doesnt seem that you have grasped things at all.

A GT35 is a 700hp turbo, where a hi-flow is around 450-500. How can you possibly compare apples and oranges?

Please read the sticky thread (dyno results), and then search on the Turbo frame numbers (GT35, GT30, GCG) etc.

thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...