Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-40900-1197245426_thumb.jpg

i know that this has been covered alot but ive been told this and that about i have to get a aftermarket ecu and tune it to fit a atmospheric bov cause the factory one is only tuned for the re-circ bov.

i just rang coffs harbour dyno and tuning services and the main man there told me i dont have to get a tune to fit a bov and i told him about the stalling and he told me its either a leak or a blockage.

a little while ago i was having idle problems and stalling even with the factory bov back on and my mate found the forum on here about the aac valve and mine was putrid and after it was cleaned out its been running perfect and my power is back.

could that aac valve been causing the problem?

well that leaves the question...does it have to be tuned or not?

cheers.

Edited by blitz r33

me and a mate just installed the bov and took it for a quick test drive and had no issues yet.

when i put it on before pretty much straight away at was rev hunting and stalling but not this time???

i will take it for a better run later and see how it goes.

no mate. been runnin my ssq for 1yr no probs.

get a hks ssq bov. it is a pull type piston (wateva that means) and is virtially impossible to leak.

i noticed in your pic that u are using a vee port type piston bov. THAR'S YOUR PROBLEM. UPGRADE TO A SSQ BOV.

no mate. been runnin my ssq for 1yr no probs.

get a hks ssq bov. it is a pull type piston (wateva that means) and is virtially impossible to leak.

i noticed in your pic that u are using a vee port type piston bov. THAR'S YOUR PROBLEM. UPGRADE TO A SSQ BOV.

will do thanks for the info.

can you let me know the price for one?

No, you don't have to necessarily get your whole car tuned just for a ATMO... the Atmo aka atmospheric BOV is a funny one.... on nearly 80% of Skylines it will cause bad stalling issues... as it plays with the AFM or something and your car will just shut down... I would recommended a plumb back on where the discharge is plumbbed back into the engine... as this is the way it was designed...

But if you want a HKS SSQV - buy mine - it's the latest one, I'll sell it to you for $150 plus postage.

PM me if you're interested otherwise good luck.

go on ebay man. i just have the copy. hasnt stepped wrong. had it apart a few times and is all sweet. make sure u dont adjust the spring tho just leave it. costs about 100+ including adapter

I dont know all the theory but its something to do with the magic the stock ecu does when it knows air is being plumbed back into the intake (ie. from the stock BOV) - so it works out the mixtures based on that air being available on top of what the AFM is reading...

So if its calculating this extra airflow and its not there (as with an atmo bov) then its gonna be stuffing up your mixtures. Aside from the stalling, you'll also notice that even on cars that dont stall, the fuel economy will suffer a bit with the atmo bov compared to the stock one. Its the same reason - your stock ecu cannot accurately get the air/fuel mixtures right if you have an atmo bov.

You can take the word of this tuning place or you can take the word of 80+% of the guys on here who have had the same issues as soon as they installed a bov that vents to atmosphere. swap it back for the stock one and the problem disappears...

Ask yourself it its worth the trouble and the cost of an aftermarket ecu + tuning.

I know what you're thinkin...

did it stall 6 times or only 5?

well to tell ya the truth in all the excitement i kinda lost count myself...

so you gotta ask yourself one question...

am i fully sikk enough?

well are ya punk?

I know what you're thinkin...

did it stall 6 times or only 5?

well to tell ya the truth in all the excitement i kinda lost count myself...

so you gotta ask yourself one question...

am i fully sikk enough?

well are ya punk?

actually none!

ive been driving it all day and it hasnt stalled once.

and am i fully sikk enough? and well are ya punk? is two questions not one.

actually none!

ive been driving it all day and it hasnt stalled once.

and am i fully sikk enough? and well are ya punk? is two questions not one.

so here we are... The part where no one knows dirty harry and i feel old enough to break a hip :banana:

It'd be best to get it tuned. You'll probably/most likely have a bit of overfueling happening.

Do you get a bit of a pop out of the exhaust on gear changes etc?

Unless you get it tuned, it'll make your car even more of a fuel muncher.

I dont know all the theory but its something to do with the magic the stock ecu does when it knows air is being plumbed back into the intake (ie. from the stock BOV) - so it works out the mixtures based on that air being available on top of what the AFM is reading...

So if its calculating this extra airflow and its not there (as with an atmo bov) then its gonna be stuffing up your mixtures. Aside from the stalling, you'll also notice that even on cars that dont stall, the fuel economy will suffer a bit with the atmo bov compared to the stock one. Its the same reason - your stock ecu cannot accurately get the air/fuel mixtures right if you have an atmo bov.

You can take the word of this tuning place or you can take the word of 80+% of the guys on here who have had the same issues as soon as they installed a bov that vents to atmosphere. swap it back for the stock one and the problem disappears...

Ask yourself it its worth the trouble and the cost of an aftermarket ecu + tuning.

This is exactly what I said... if you wanna get an atmo BOV - nothing wrong with that - get yourself an aftermarket ecu like an Apexi FC and spend $450 on a tune not to mention the $1,300 on the FC... or just take the god-damned BOV off at put your stock on or one that plumbs back into the engine back on.... your call... I've decided to go back to the stockie... runs nice and fuel economy is better too....

This is exactly what I said... if you wanna get an atmo BOV - nothing wrong with that - get yourself an aftermarket ecu like an Apexi FC and spend $450 on a tune not to mention the $1,300 on the FC... or just take the god-damned BOV off at put your stock on or one that plumbs back into the engine back on.... your call... I've decided to go back to the stockie... runs nice and fuel economy is better too....

thats only if your car stalls,but it would be good to get a after market ecu and a tune if you would like to go more boost and get a few mods done.

it must have been the aac valve on my car cause ive been driving it for 3 days now and not a problem.

thats only if your car stalls,but it would be good to get a after market ecu and a tune if you would like to go more boost and get a few mods done.

it must have been the aac valve on my car cause ive been driving it for 3 days now and not a problem.

That's right mate... if it works fine then I wouldn't worry...

If you can afford it, I would definitely recommend a tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...