Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah my brothers 180sx which has a fully built sr20det, cp forgies, eagle steel rods H beam and acl race series bearings. Its a killer engine.

But then you get mechanics that will only use nissan bearings or a type of ring set etc

BTW they make good cheap bearings for rb26, 25 and 30 as well

yeah they are alright for comp engines (i use the race series) but a 100% no-no for streeters to hard and unforgiving ive gone back to kings believe it or not. i was noticing quite a lot of wear on the crank journals after long service periods (high km's) on road cars. Alot of the old V8 guys are seeing the same thing in thier high hp engines.

but hey every one has an oppinion and at the end of the day if it works then brand is irrelevant... there are 1000's of ways to skin a cat :(

the last few customer SR20's i pulled down were built using combinations.. clevite mains and nissan bigends... obviously someone found that combo worked for them or thier budget.... oh best mod on one was that they put 2 of the second rings in upside down.... worked great ...NOT

i use the acl race series bearings in my engine as well and its a streeter... got me worried now.... i use motul 300v chrono and i change it every 5000km's or before... i have the mahle acl forged pistons as well and china made H beam rods

lol that motor had standard pistons thanks mate.

And yes trent we pull apart the race motors every 5000-20000klm depending on how lucky we are and chuck in new bearings - our engine guy hadn't mentioned a concern with journal wear but I ight ask them specifically

We use CP pistons(Tomei on strokers) and ACL race bearings in almost everything inc WAs 2 fastest race Skyline and don't have any problems, Never seen this crank wear issue.

The only Piston I see with problems is Venolias with cracks starting at the oil jet cutout, but only on RBs.

We use CP pistons(Tomei on strokers) and ACL race bearings in almost everything inc WAs 2 fastest race Skyline and don't have any problems, Never seen this crank wear issue.

The only Piston I see with problems is Venolias with cracks starting at the oil jet cutout, but only on RBs.

how many of them have been torn down and micced up at 50000km? not many i bet.... like i said in all the comp engines i use acl race but for engines that need to last extended periods ive moved to something a little softer

  • 2 years later...
how many of them have been torn down and micced up at 50000km? not many i bet.... like i said in all the comp engines i use acl race but for engines that need to last extended periods ive moved to something a little softer

Shouldn't the engine oil create a protective film between the bearing and the crank, and the wear of the crank journals be a function of the oil's film strength rather than the hardness of the bearing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...