Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

-sigh- dude this has been covered to death. it is the stock ecu. it has a process of RICH AND RETARD. when u go over 10psi the ecu freaks out and retards the timing and dumps fuel....hence the rich.

this results in the car feeling as tho it is hitting the wall, and is slightly jerky with a huge flat spot. twist it back to 10PSI.

safc will help with the rich problem. but it doesnt monitor or control timing etc.

GET A REAL EAM ECU.

greddy emanage ultimate controls timing.

em blue is fine but lacks the features of the emu

My car doesn't feel like I am hitting a wall, and it does NOT jerk.

As I wrote before, it feels as though (on 12 PSI) I am driving with the hand brake up, almost as though something is holding the car back, it's truely bizzare.

It doesn't want to accelarate on 12 PSI.

If it were running that rich, I should be seeing black smoke from the exhaust, which I am not....

Maybe I should just get a Power FC and fine tune everything...

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

LMFAO.

no more accelleration IS hitting the wall.

it is the R&R that is built into every skyline. u need a tune. safc will fix the problem. pfc is a bit drastic as some are edging closer to $2k every day.

hence the car is running rich!

Edited by r33cruiser

totally agree with r33 cruiser.

I had the same issue many years ago.

basic mods, turned boost up - felt EXACTLY like hitting a wall. When it did happen, car would run like crap untill I turned it off. when I did turn it off, turned boost down.

After a week I was sick of it happening and got a powerFC and never looked back.

This is called Rich and Retard as r33 cruiser said :P

LMFAO.

no more accelleration IS hitting the wall.

it is the R&R that is built into every skyline. u need a tune. safc will fix the problem. pfc is a bit drastic as some are edging closer to $2k every day.

hence the car is running rich!

When you say "hit the wall", a reasonable person would interpret this to mean, a sudden loss of power, like a fuel/boost cut, which jerks your forward suddenly and VERY hard, hence the expression, hit a wall.

As I said before, this isn't the case, it DOES NOT feel as though I've hit a wall, it just feels as though somethings holding it back ie. hand brake up whislt driving.

Thanks for your comments anyway.

dude u are being really pedantic and critical. we saw a fellow liner in trouble then we offered u advise, good advice i might add that has been tried and tested. and u attempt to flame us out...then thank us for comments

wtf?!

end of topic facts: - it is R&R

- get a programmable ecu

-and/or lower boost.

problem solved. move on.

oh and 'thanks for your question'

were here to help

Edited by r33cruiser

I'm suprised this thread hasn't been locked, rich and retard has been covered about 1000 times and yet people are still giving false and misleading answers. Rich and Retard end of story.

-sigh- dude this has been covered to death. it is the stock ecu. it has a process of RICH AND RETARD. when u go over 10psi the ecu freaks out and retards the timing and dumps fuel....hence the rich.

this results in the car feeling as tho it is hitting the wall, and is slightly jerky with a huge flat spot. twist it back to 10PSI.

safc will help with the rich problem. but it doesnt monitor or control timing etc.

GET A REAL EAM ECU.

greddy emanage ultimate controls timing.

em blue is fine but lacks the features of the emu

Actually thats fuel cut, jerky throw you out of the car feeling .. Fix, fuel cut defender

Bogging and shit performance is R&R.. Safc, EMU, Aftermarket ECU

And the problem you have is R&R mate.. Bogging and slow accleration etc.. Fuel cut feels like missfire except missfire delights your ears with often a rather large BOOOM to scare the shit out of you

Edited by DECIM8
When you say "hit the wall", a reasonable person would interpret this to mean, a sudden loss of power, like a fuel/boost cut, which jerks your forward suddenly and VERY hard, hence the expression, hit a wall.

As I said before, this isn't the case, it DOES NOT feel as though I've hit a wall, it just feels as though somethings holding it back ie. hand brake up whislt driving.

Thanks for your comments anyway.

Have you checked your base timing if its too retarded it will be gutless up top, mine was hitting R&R with 12 psi on the stock ecu as well so definitely wind it back a bit

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

SAFC Neo and a SITC (if you can find one) are good little alternatives; these 2 piggybacks together can run larger afm, larger turbo etc

if youve got the SAFC then use it and tune to 11psi for the stock turbo

wow this thread is still going :)

thought his question was answered either way boost cut or r&r ecu will fix the prob or run 10 psi.

Running 12psi on standard turbo will likely kill it quickly. <--- although I'll probably get flamed for saying that; some people thinks up to 13.5psi is ok on standard turbo but really any more than 10psi all day everyday will kill turbo quickly especially if you got a heavy right foot.

safc = bandaid, illegal, waste of time.

chipped ROM = good for minor mods, cheaper or equal to SAFC + tune ($950 inc. chip & tune from Powerhouse in Campbelltown NSW), factory safety measures & cold start/ economy etc retained, legal.

full ecu = good long term prospects i.e ease of future mods, solid control, less engine protection, illegal, ideal for race car.

QUESTIONS ANSWERED, FULL STOP, THE END, LET IT DIE!!! :rofl:

Interesting...

Is this the same for the R32s?

I have recently upped the boost to 0.8-0.9 with a Profec B Spec II, and i have not had any issues with the R & R?

Should i worry about my engine running too lean?

BTW i am in the process of getting the ECU remapped, but it wont be for another 2 monthsish...So nobody have a go at me and tell me to get it done :rofl:

Edited by Douse

I ran a 13.7 on around 250rwhp..

Just installed a Blitz Spec R and a SAFC-Neo and tune - dyno shows 292.9rwhp. Yet the best run I did the other night was a 13.9 :rofl:

The car really does not feel like 290rwhp - like this guy said it's like having my handbrake half on. I asked to have the tune on ~12 psi. The boost has spiked to 1.07, I've done my own settings for around 0.75 but still doesnt feel as quick as it should be.

Oh how I wish a powerFC was easy to come by.

its pretty easy stock turbo is slow

stock ecu doesnt like you to change things

put those two things together and you get what happen to you!

simple and cheapest fix buy a safc tune it for 12psi.

also stock turbo are shit above 12-14psi.....

ALRIGHT IM CHANGING THE SUBJECT LOL

in your opinion WHAT IS THE LARGEST TURBO a rb25 can run comfortably.

apply, that internals, supports etc have been done

:banana:

ALRIGHT IM CHANGING THE SUBJECT LOL

in your opinion WHAT IS THE LARGEST TURBO a rb25 can run comfortably.

apply, that internals, supports etc have been done

:rofl:

define comfortably?

you can run any size turbo on an rb25 t51r, t04z, t88 etc.....

depends what your power goal is? and if you like high peak power, or good average power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...