Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its called Ginos.. fancy that haha..

after my bday i was hung over like a mule and i went and got a pizza.. got followed by the popo on the way back.. but still was delicious..

little marios have some sick waitresses there.. man its like u eat and froth out at the same time!!

its called Ginos.. fancy that haha..

after my bday i was hung over like a mule and i went and got a pizza.. got followed by the popo on the way back.. but still was delicious..

little marios have some sick waitresses there.. man its like u eat and froth out at the same time!!

Sound spot on in all respects...nothing like a nice view while your eating :laugh:

Sad thing is I'm way way over the s.e, I don't get over that side too often... but next time I'm out that way I'll definately check it out.

Cheers

lets not forget the utes are called trucks now too hehe

Truck, mini truck and pickup truck, seems they can't make up their minds ..anyone called my ute any of those I reckon I might kick em in the nuts.

real aussies don't drive SUV's they drive Forbee's :domokun: Middle aged mums with horrible driving skills drive SUV's.

lol good luck trying to say "I gotta put gas in my Skyline" with a straight face in Melbourne... we still use natural gas, and that's not what you'd put in a performance car.

fender's one of those interchangeable ones... as I've heard it used in the colonies too.

get this though... in the UK they call widebody guards "wide arch kits". lol.

unless you have a straight gas r33 with 300kw :domokun: that would be tough and the EPA and TMU will be cursing! freaking cops... cops of men!

americans are stupid full stop.. seriously.. SUV.. they arnt even SPORTY!! get urself a hilux.. put a 2jzgte with a t78 on the bastard and thats sport!!

One of my best mates is a mechanic and at his workshop one day Nova came down and was doing a big promotion for gas conversions for cars.

They actually had a Skyline come into their garage who has done a complete gas conversion (cant even run off petrol anymore, solely gas), and they actually produced more power with no other modifications. Supposedly if you do a full conversion properly (changing injectors, etc) to only run gas, your car will put out more power, and of course be cheaper to run in the end.

Food for thought :)

yeah LPG has a higher octane rating than petrol... if i had the cash i would run a straight gas r33.. and cops cant touch ya.. DUNN DUN DUN DUN CANT TOUCH YA... STOP HAMMERTIME

Cracks me up. HAMMERTIME!

  • 2 months later...
watch a few eps of top gear and you'll see not all those terms arent as american as you think

Clarksons a nub...always has been. I spent a fair bit of time in the uk car scene and being of welsh/english origins It saddens me to see Englishmen adopting Americanisms just as much as we do here. He's an amusing presenter but when it comes to vehicle knowledge and practical application of it he's a tit head who doesnt know his arse from his elbow. The same goes for May and Hammond to differring degrees.

Edited by madbung

Hey I am as guilty as the next guy as i don't proof read my posts and my typing is terrible. But what does bother me is the rather ordinary spelling on forums. Add to that all the terms and bitchery of the English language because we are too lazy to type an extra letter of three.

Wtf sure you dont mean fairings?

Fairing is the body work that protects the rider from the wind (round engine, up side, over instruments etc), Guards are th bits over the wheels.

I use wing mirrors, that's what I always called them, I suppose because I always called the fenders/guards 'wings', and that's where the mirrors started out before more modern cars moved them to the door. (probably just a UK thing)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...