Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

As the topic suggests, anyone done a R33-R34 front conversion yet? I am very interested in doing this - how hard would it be, what would be involved and what would costs look like?

What can I say, a flawless R33 body and tough back lights with a breath-taking R34 front bar - damn, if only such a car is sold on the market... no other car would come close.

Please post up some pictures and/or your experiences.

Thanks all.

Pictures:

10ej0c4.jpg

10ej0ns.jpg

10ej2qc.jpg

10ej2v6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198078-any-r334s-out-there/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When I read the subject line I thought "oh no, dont tell me..."

but when I saw the pics I thought that actually doesn't look too bad.

I'm all for making your car unique as long as it still looks good and IMO this fits the bill perfectly.

If you did this you'd have one VERY unique ride >_< would turn heads for sure!

That looks tough as! I probably couldn't justifying spending so much to do it though. Probably better off selling the 33 and getting a 34, but even then you wouldn't have a 34 gtr kit on it.

just buy an r34...

i dont know why ppl do this shit....

its like 34 gtr fronts on stageas, i dont like them either.

waste of time and money imo.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Edited by r33cruiser
nice job, but still not worth the cash

for the money you'd pay you can get a 34

Actually, it doesn't cost all that much considering.

A couple of thousand inc panels.

And considering people are struggling to sell R33s for $13000 these days, it's a far sight less then buying an decent 34.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

Not sure what 34's you've been looking at. The only reason that 33 looks low is because of the rear bar. Get a similar thing on a 34 and it'll look low as.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Couldn't have said it any better... you stole my words... exactly mate, and this is totally personal - but the R33 has very fine looking lines, a great shape and a timeless look to it... the front is tough as too so overall, in my opinion; the R33 if modified cosmetically right (or R33 GTR stock) looks awesome... having said that... the R34 front is (especially on the GTR) is... damn... I'm stuck for words... totally jaw-dropping... very nice... hence, a lot of people do this conversion as you get best of both worlds...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...