Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For this guys who are looking to install a fire extinguiser for track days,

read ahead!

Make sure you have a CAMS approved Fire extinguisher and it is in its current date/charged etc

All you'll need is a 12mm socket to undo the bolt. And a drill to drill the hole in the metal extinguisher bracket to make the hole slightly bigger.

After doing a few searches and talking with Duncan and Sam916 - this was prob the best place we could think of, its still in reach from drivers seat while seat belted in (which is a CAMS requirement)

I have my back seat out, so I dont know how it goes with backseat in...

2174033_17_full.jpg

Thats the bolt on the passenger side of the back seat. Just get the 12mm socket, take her out!

Drill the hole (note - I cannot remember size, however best to start small and if the bolt still doesnt fit, go to a bigger drill)

2174033_19_full.jpg

You need the nozzle/top of the extinguisher facing towards the left of the car. So make sure you drill into the top hole in the metal bracket.

2174033_14_full.jpg

Tats it fitted!

Do the bolt up tight. We did it up tight and tried to budge it, sits in quite secure.

2174033_16_full.jpg

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198337-r33-fire-extinguisher-instal/
Share on other sites

Dammit.

I double posted :blink: hahahaha this thread is in general maint section - can a mod please merge posts? Cheers!

James, I got this one from Auto1

the whathisface?...umm....

not bad, I'm a bit worried that it's only held in by a single bolt.. i'd prefer two for safety.

what about under the driver's seat? I've seen examples of making a bracket up and it looks fairly straightforward. Not sure if you can strictly reach that with the seatbelt on tho.

Geoff!!

Mate,

have you seen the two little holes that they come with (the bracket)? they dont even look secure! :D

Once you do the bolt up really tight, I tried to budge it, make it move etc and it was dead tight (and Im heaps strong!!!lol)

Ask Sam! :)

Dammit.

I double posted :) hahahaha this thread is in general maint section - can a mod please merge posts? Cheers!

James, I got this one from Auto1

the whathisface?...umm....

I meant the thing that holds the extinguisher? same place?

Ask Sam! ;)

Chris, what you guys get up to in your own time is your business and yours alone :banana:

the standard bolt holes do look pretty pissweak, but if you had a shunt an extinguisher is heavy and i can see it twisting the bracket and maybe popping out and flying around looking for you. maybe at the speed that happens you've got other things to worry about but better to err on the safe side!

hope things are well anyway.. I haven't seen any skyline peeps in months :)

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
hey Casbo..

have u got anymore phots of this install???

got my extinguisher for my 33 now..just stilll wondering wer to put it...

wer about is urs?have u got anymore photos???

thanks

I don't have any more photos right now, but I can take some pics tomorrow :D

The photos I took where taken from in between the front seats with me being in the driver's seat.

  • 1 year later...

That was a long next day :D

Any who, I took some pics as evil_weevil's ones have stopped working. Figure I might also do a bit of instruction while I'm at it.

Step 1.

Go to your local Autobarn / Supercheap / Repco / where ever. Take a look at what fire extinguishers they have. You are looking for 3 things

1. Over 0.9 kgs

2. AS1841.5 sticker

3. Pressure still in the "green"

4. Comes with a bracket.

Here are some pics of what I mean.

fire0004.th.jpg

fire0003.th.jpg

I bought my extinguisher for around $30 so I imagine that yours will cost a similar amount.

Step 2.

Pull the extinguisher out of the box and separate the bracket from the extinguisher.

fire0005.th.jpg

Step 3.

Drill the mounting hole furthest from the bracket's latch out to at least 8mm. I drilled mine out to 9mm to give me some margin to play with when I finally mount it.

EDIT

Be careful when drilling as the drill can grab the thin metal of the bracket and force it out of your hands, usually giving a good gouge in the process. Use a vice or stand on the bracket like I did lol

fire0006.th.jpg

Step 4.

Undo the bolt that holds down the passenger side of the rear seat.

fire0001.th.jpg

fire0002.th.jpg

Step 5.

Bolt bracket to rear seat mounting point.

fire0007.th.jpg

Step 6.

Put extinguisher into bracket

fire0008.th.jpg

fire0009.th.jpg

Step 7.

Rip skids

n639839121_1630968_4930.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
    • The stock manifold is "mostly" divided. The divider actually has a notch cut out of it where it would meet the divider on a twin scroll housing. I have no idea why. But whatever the reason, it would cause some cross talk when used with a twin scroll housing. People do put twin scroll housings onto that manifold. But I'm of the opinion that proper twin scroll internal gating is...not really possible at this scale. You'd be throwing good effort (ie $$) after bad, when you really should be doing something else. Notwithstanding that.... I am not sure what the idea that you are floating has to do with the difference in comp cover position caused by the highflow using a shorter length core than the stock Hitachi one. Can you clarify what you meant?
    • Majority of regulars are > 30. We all act at least 50. Definitely not friendly as we're all grumpy. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...