Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

simple question...

have you had work done / car tuned by either of these workshops?

-- APC (Advanced Performance Centre) - Underwood

-- Millennium Motorsports - Tingalpa

-- Brisbane Tuning & Dyno Centre - Gabba

good and bad comments welcome, but send a PM if you need to cut loose :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198678-had-your-car-tuned-by-these-guys/
Share on other sites

Brisbane Tunning - yes i have both my R33 GTST and my 34 GTT , they are great for BASIC tune and service .. Turbo overhauls etc as they are HKS and Garett Autherised etc... service wise i wouldnt let anyone else apart from John do the Dyno runs .. as he knows his RB's if your looking at computer tunes etc.. id recommend Godzilla .. had my apexi tuned at Brisbane Turbo .. had a leaner tune to it .. now the car runs better more power at lower boost , mark knows his computer things and engines more then what john would...equally they are both great workshops both are resonable prized ..150 for a one hour dyno tune @ brisbane Turbo , Godzilla 200 a hour tune .. most time you only need hour and a half at the most ..

APC - My brother took his Evo9 tuned there for the reflash .. they are good for small jobs as well but be warned VERY Expensive !.. personally my experiance with them were nothing interesting ..with my RVR they did a crappy job on exhaust and intake install.. which was fixed with a few phone calls to nick .. so i cant really comment if they are good or bad .. average more for your evo fan i guess..

General Service Maintenance id go either Centrax or Sunnybank Signature Service great prices great service !

Edited by 53XYN

me and the wife had a run in with john at btt

it was enough for us never to go back, appart form the work they did was expensive and i had to get some of it fixed at motsons

i wouldnt go there

thanks again,

the reason behind my question... these 3 shops are Greddy/Trust dealers.

As some of you know, I've recently purchased an emanage Ultimate.

was thinking to get it installed by a dealer, as the 'safer' option (internal support from dealer to greddy, etc).

I'm in Sydney Jan/Feb, getting Croydon to do it is the other option.

thanks again,

the reason behind my question... these 3 shops are Greddy/Trust dealers.

As some of you know, I've recently purchased an emanage Ultimate.

was thinking to get it installed by a dealer, as the 'safer' option (internal support from dealer to greddy, etc).

I'm in Sydney Jan/Feb, getting Croydon to do it is the other option.

if u have the opportunity of getting crd to do it, then by all means do what ever u can to make that happen!

I have been to BTT once and Im never going back. They have a downhill dyno (reads way to high) and i was not impressed with prices and the work they carried out on my car...

I would go to Matty Spry at P.I.T.S down the coast for a tune, he has been tuning my cars for about 4-5 years and has never given me a reason to go anywhere else..

Sorry to intrude on your thread Chris, but I think everyones missing the point.

He is not asking for alternative workshops, he wants to compair the "Greddy" authorised workshops around.

No doubt Matt is a great tuner I agree however he does not work with Greddy Ecu's at all.

1+ for matt at P.I.T.S plus he can have access to GREDDY direct support also... plus he knows most systems like the back of his hand anyways... he's been doin my car ever since the rebuild and he has given me no reason to look elsewhere

He might be able to gain access to dealer support like anyone who sells the product but he still does not work with the units, he said so himself.

Ill be the first to plug his work too if he was a suitable choice ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...y+day+with+matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...