Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what are you after? life would be easy if there was just one cheapest shop

AGREED. for second hand parts i go to sydney auto dismantlers in greenacre, heaps cheap. i reckon for motors and gear boxes there the cheapest.

JustJap have their own brand of coilpacks, which are supposedly just as good.

Otherwise, slidewise or kudos or someone registered on SAU was doing Splitfires for a reasonable price. $500 I think? or $525. You won't save more than $50 importing them from overseas websites.

Sorry to highjack.. im looking for a standard R32 GTR cat-back exhaust?

Does anyone know of any wreckers that might have one in stock?

Thanks

give sydney auto dismantlers a call in greenacre, like i said there probly the cheapest for jap cars i reckon, but then again its wreckers so call around. i have to say though, that they are good guys, the guys there at the desk, cant remember his name... but yet he stuck to his word and got me the part i wanted by the time he said he would for a good price, and his workers helped me locate the problem. great service.

my 1.888cents

  • 2 weeks later...

perfectrun.com.au

I got my coils from ther and a few other pieces over time, great delivery time and they come all the way from Japan, very good prices...

5days to get my splitfires... best price I could find...

depends what you are after. obviously motors and that sort you should shop around and find legit places that offer warranty (not stupidly cheap which are usually that for a reason). turbos id go GCG. wheels (RAYS, Volks, G-Games [well theyre actually all the same company]) id go Mu Secret in Burwood. carbon gear go Mu Secret. Engines go Sumo Jap Spares in Chipping Norton. most of the other stuff go forum traders :)

depends what you are after. obviously motors and that sort you should shop around and find legit places that offer warranty (not stupidly cheap which are usually that for a reason). turbos id go GCG. wheels (RAYS, Volks, G-Games [well theyre actually all the same company]) id go Mu Secret in Burwood. carbon gear go Mu Secret. Engines go Sumo Jap Spares in Chipping Norton. most of the other stuff go forum traders :)

Does mu scret have second hand rims?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...