Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats a tight fit, but i reckon we'll do the same as that, why move the rad back for pushers? is there a benifit to running push over pull?

nah pull FTW, due to the conical shape of the fans and no condensor fitting the rad further back you would have heaps of room to front mount them, but i prefer pull type over push,

the only reason i mentioned it was to save cutting metal... only need to shorten rad hoses.

TRENT!!!! number... please!!!!!!!! lol

http://www.redlineauto.com.au/

im not sure what they can do price wise as i buy as a wholesaler on account.... they are the distributor and only qoute retail. You will usually find autobarn or repco are happy to talk deals.

I was told that if you are not using a greddy style intake manifold, then you will have a hard time clearing the rad due to the IC piping(if running a thicker rad), this piping could be changed however I went through three stock rads last year so this year I am buying a new alum rad and forward facing intake manifold.

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

yeah the twin 12" work fine, i also use a NISMO thermostat. As for switching i like to use the drift fan controller to engage two separate relays one for each fan and each relay runs a 50ish amp circuit breaker (avail any auto shop) so that in the case they over heat they dont shut down for good.... they will cool down and reset. i used a pivot fan controller originally but it was shit and caused the fans to stop working on more than one occasion.

i also use large gauge wiring as i found out after doing a strobe test on the fan speed that with the orginal wiring i used only ran the fans at 80% not at full speed... so spend the time on the 12v supply (i used audio 6awg) you should be laughing.

9510_2.jpg

would you mind doing a quick diagram of how you set it up? i bought one of those drift fan controllers you suggested and am using 2 12" sonic thermo fans.

when using large gauge wiring is that from battery to the fans only?

no need to change any of the wiring that came with the controller?

would you recommend using the nismo t/stat instead of a genuine nissan one also?

my car is only used for drift as well so no aircon etc

thanks very much

Simon is the box in yet? If so, how did you find the shifter to line up with the shifter hole in the S13 chasis? Any pics of this if possible?

Eventually il be putting a 25 in my 180....just waiting to get the motor back together at the moment!

It doesn't cause me any problems, well kinda 1, when I'm in 1st or 5th, the leather shift boot is really tight. Other than that no dramas!

I'm not too sure what cross member I'm using, but for the gearbox using the CA18DET one.

I bougth my car with the motor in it .. I only know how to wire up a RB into a S13.

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

Did you check out SPAL fans from PWR? I use one in mine, much thinnner and massive CFM increase over the davies craig

Did you check out SPAL fans from PWR? I use one in mine, much thinnner and massive CFM increase over the davies craig

I had a look at Spal fans, the thinness they have is 52mm but the air flow is crazy... not many people stock them in australia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
  • Create New...