Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My votes go to www.prestigemotorsport.com.au and www.j-spec.com.au

Both have been around for years, the 32 was imported with prestige and i haven't had any major problems with her since (near 3 yrs so far)!

I'm also looking at importing an R34 atm. Is autoworx cheaper when they import specifically for you compared to the available stock on their website?

Edited by SR32

but autoworx gives money back gaurentee if the cars not as described

if you do a search theres been quiet a few horror stories about cars that had accident damage and cant get compliance

then you left with a very expensive track car?

we are importing a 34gtr for a customer now and if your ok with reasonable km you can get a 99/00 with 80-90000km for as low as 45k landed and complied . you may even get a vspec for not much more

80000km may frighten some people but remember these cars are now almost 10 years old so thats reasonably average km and a great price to get into a 34 gtr and we are seeing beautiful grade 4 cars come up at that price even with those km so we are still talking excellent quality

all our cars are of coarse hand picked and inspected in japan and our guys know skylines inside and out

for the record we have never had a car we supplied that couldn't be complied or even come close , were just not in that game

and you will save significantly from importing over stock cars as the stock ones come with warranty and are lot prepared etc

Edited by 32vspecII

It's always nice to drive a car before you buy it, but as long as the kays are genuine, the grade/accident history is accurate, and the import company can pretty much guarantee the safety of the car- then i guess you'd be okay.

I've been told, regardless of the importer, if you can get one of the stocker cars from here, you'll do well:

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_...php?model=BNR34

You will see a few of their cars referred to from the other importer's sites.

  • 3 months later...

i see somebody's finally looking to get that GTR ey?? anyway i bought mine blind from the east..was a little scary when i think back about it..paid full amount upfront without even seeing or driving the car..but thankfully everything turned out fine :( ..anyway i think it would be best to pay the premium and go thru a proper company to have your car imported..saves you the worries and headaches if anything turns out wrong

autoworx FTW :(, they import good cars, have great service and look after you

i can honostly say they are the only workshop i have used that havnt stuffed me round yet, and i have used most known workshop around,

my car came from there and many parts also came from them all with great service :P

YEP... when i think back on it, wish i bought my 34 from Autoworx... Really good people down there, will definatly be gettin my parts through them from now on... URAS KIT FTW... when i can afford it that is!!

i see somebody's finally looking to get that GTR ey?? anyway i bought mine blind from the east..was a little scary when i think back about it..paid full amount upfront without even seeing or driving the car..but thankfully everything turned out fine :D ..anyway i think it would be best to pay the premium and go thru a proper company to have your car imported..saves you the worries and headaches if anything turns out wrong

yeah i don't know if i wanan buy blind hey it's a bit risky

i mean another option is

Kelvin jsut swap cars with me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...