Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a 3540 with the smallest exhaust housing on a 25det and a stretched rev limiter to 7,500 and it wakes up late 3,000's but pulls very very hard to the limiter.

so on a rb20 it will be alot of more laggy

i would go a 3071R or a 3076R .63 for rb20

i have a 3540 with the smallest exhaust housing on a 25det and a stretched rev limiter to 7,500 and it wakes up late 3,000's but pulls very very hard to the limiter.

so on a rb20 it will be alot of more laggy

i would go a 3071R or a 3076R .63 for rb20

Yeh, no doubt woudl be laggy. But if ppl put them on big power SR20s then i see no reason why not an RB20. Only you would want it to be a dyno car or a drag car, not a daily streeter.

If you are running 81mm pistons for a bump in displacement, with around 9.0:1 compression. Dont go too big on cam duration, say 256 and 8.8mm lift. Stick with std inlet manifold and make sure the 3540 is running a nice exhaust manifold and is well tuned with cam gears used to dial it all in.

I see no reason why the thing wont be on song in the mid 5,000rpm range. Wil be able to rev the thing to 8,800rpm and make a good wack of power, around 320-340rwkws (depending on the turbo spec)

Worst case throw a shorter diff ratio in the thing.

Whether it makes sense to do all this to an RB20 instead of a bigger brother its hard to know and not for us to say. But if you want a more streetable setup with i would think a 3076 woudl definitely give you a better compromise of power nad drivability.

Have you looked at the Turbonetics or ITS range ?

yeah i was assuming that it would be more laggy because of a smaller displacement engine with more pistons, so a shorter stroke? but sr20s are the same displacement with less pistons so bigger bore x stroke?

if its a streeter no way i would put that on a sr20 without MASSIVE cams and a 9,000rpm limiter, just too big of a turbo for down low power.

pffff dont listen to the RB20 haters. im putting a GT3040 on my RB20, will be slightly less laggy.

if you want response obviously its far to big, but with a full build it will be alot of fun.

two words.

do it......

there was a r32 in a recent zoom issue with a built rb20/gt3540

specs below, that motor has since expired but meh.....

To cut the list short -

Forged internals

Standard cams

Tomei cam gears (in anticipation for cams.....)

GT3540 turbo (high mount)

Turbosmart 38mm ext. wastegate (with screamer, love that sound!!)

110mm thick front mount

3 inch dump into 4 inch exhaust

Nismo 555cc injectors

Bosch 500hp fuel pump

Link ECU (upgrading to Microtech LT-12 this week)

Turbosmart E-Boost2

Alloy triple-flow radiator

Car made 293rwkw/393rwhp @ 21psi (more to come). Would post up the dyno sheet but I don't have a scanner!

Is also featured in current issue of ZOOM (# 118)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=140

^^ RB20 power thread is the best place to look. theres another two GT30 series powered RB20's on the page after the above one.

Edited by esky_mad
QUOTE(LTHLRB @ 20 Jan 2008, 02:31 PM)

i have a 3540 with the smallest exhaust housing on a 25det and a stretched rev limiter to 7,500 and it wakes up late 3,000's but pulls very very hard to the limiter.

so on a rb20 it will be alot of more laggy

i would go a 3071R or a 3076R .63 for rb20

same here. i have a .82 rear housing. and boost comes on at about 3200-3500.. a greddy plenum helps.

if u are after PEAK power go for it mate. but it will only last for 2000rpm..

if your after response AND decent power go a 3071R

yeah mine comes on at around that aswell.. last time i drove it i stopped looking at the tacho and concerntrated on keeping it straight it shot up very fast fron around the 3000's thats full boost, not starting, but already at 18psi

respect to the almighty gt3540....

if u want a kick in the pants and would be happy with a constant whiplash injury go the 3540... but as i said before on a rb20....it will only last for 3sec :)

it just wouldnt do it, u or the car any justice

Edited by r33cruiser
pffff dont listen to the RB20 haters. im putting a GT3040 on my RB20, will be slightly less laggy.

if you want response obviously its far to big, but with a full build it will be alot of fun.

two words.

do it......

there was a r32 in a recent zoom issue with a built rb20/gt3540

specs below, that motor has since expired but meh.....

To cut the list short -

Forged internals

Standard cams

Tomei cam gears (in anticipation for cams.....)

GT3540 turbo (high mount)

Turbosmart 38mm ext. wastegate (with screamer, love that sound!!)

110mm thick front mount

3 inch dump into 4 inch exhaust

Nismo 555cc injectors

Bosch 500hp fuel pump

Link ECU (upgrading to Microtech LT-12 this week)

Turbosmart E-Boost2

Alloy triple-flow radiator

Car made 293rwkw/393rwhp @ 21psi (more to come). Would post up the dyno sheet but I don't have a scanner!

Is also featured in current issue of ZOOM (# 118)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=140

^^ RB20 power thread is the best place to look. theres another two GT30 series powered RB20's on the page after the above one.

Yes but if you read the article closely it doesnt even start to see positive pressure untill 4600rpm

Buy that time even old dak daks will have hosed you off the road.

think of it this way......nothing nothing nothing......boost...wheel spin....rev limit, change gear and repeat....

GT3076 at the most for a street car.

But its your car so do what u like. :blink:

boo to the RB20 haters.

with the right cams you can dial in more than respectable response for the loyal old beast.

remember people that youre comparing other motors to the RB20, which is kinda dumb considering there in a completely different league.

i say go for it mate. then if you dont like it change the turbo.

Buy that time even old dak daks will have hosed you off the road.

But its your car so do what u like. :D

in my opinion i couldnt care less if a dodgy old non turb r33 beat me, cause i know id be having a hell of a lot more fun. isnt that what modifying your car is all about.

that last comment always annoys me :blink:

my 2c.

pffff dont listen to the RB20 haters. im putting a GT3040 on my RB20, will be slightly less laggy.

if you want response obviously its far to big, but with a full build it will be alot of fun.

two words.

do it......

there was a r32 in a recent zoom issue with a built rb20/gt3540

specs below, that motor has since expired but meh.....

To cut the list short -

Forged internals

Standard cams

Tomei cam gears (in anticipation for cams.....)

GT3540 turbo (high mount)

Turbosmart 38mm ext. wastegate (with screamer, love that sound!!)

110mm thick front mount

3 inch dump into 4 inch exhaust

Nismo 555cc injectors

Bosch 500hp fuel pump

Link ECU (upgrading to Microtech LT-12 this week)

Turbosmart E-Boost2

Alloy triple-flow radiator

Car made 293rwkw/393rwhp @ 21psi (more to come). Would post up the dyno sheet but I don't have a scanner!

Is also featured in current issue of ZOOM (# 118)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=140

^^ RB20 power thread is the best place to look. theres another two GT30 series powered RB20's on the page after the above one.

meh you could do that with a TD06 and far less lag.... 293rwkw is nothing special...

with the right cams you can dial in more than respectable response for the loyal old beast.

your a bloody idiot esky mad.

such noobieness.

just go a 3071R or a 3076R .63 for rb20

ONLY if u like driving around on vacuum would u ever go a 3540

i agree with uras on this one, the td06 is underated. on a built engine with boost above 20 psi you will crack 300 rwkws and have so much better response than the 3540. some one has to say it lol, look at roys he uses a td06 on a 20 and that thing is wicked, not even a built engine and manages 260 or so, i know which one is the better choice. but hey up to you

i agree with uras on this one, the td06 is underated. on a built engine with boost above 20 psi you will crack 300 rwkws and have so much better response than the 3540. some one has to say it lol, look at roys he uses a td06 on a 20 and that thing is wicked, not even a built engine and manages 260 or so, i know which one is the better choice. but hey up to you

yup... even the baby 06 the L2 makes 265-275rwkw at 1.2bar with std eng and 256/264's and will have upto 50-70rwkw more throughout the mid. At 1.5bar with plenum and 272's it would match that 290-300rwkw and still have much more mid.... or simply get the SH 06. the 3071R is also a good option but they are soft to drive and are no match for an 06.

Im my experience there are only two choices for rb20:

td06

and HKS GT2835 0.61 52t which is the small inlet version.

I think I can speak here as I have a little experance with this , I currently run a gt3040R on an rb20 a built engine and I spent thousands getting it to flow its great as it boosts pretty early and is fairly powerful car ran an 11.7 at wsid ,while this is great for a track car its not for a streeter as when it comes on boost its wheel speen city even with perrilli P zero's and on low boost ,low boost it makes 240rwkw but the way it comes on is a rush of power from 3900rpm to 5100rpm it goes from about 80rwkw to 288rwkw so in 1200rpm it makes 208rwkw thats a lot of power for the rear wheels to hold

I would tend to agree with Roy and URAS ,from graphs I've seen the tdo6 has a lot more linial power delivery to the garrett turbos as they come on in a rush and the gt3540 would be worse than mine .

I dont drive my car on the street anymore as for one its just too wild and two with the new hoon laws with that sorta power delivery with out r spec tyres there aint gonna be any traction and in front of a cop bye bye car so my engine is coming out the car is going back to stock to be sold of and I've now got a gtr so got better chance of keeping the power to the ground . This is just my opinion but hope it helps

cheers Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...