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Hi,

I have an S13 and I want it for every day street use and drag strip to hit 10.5s!!

I bought an r32 rb26dett with gearbox 4wd, loom, ecu, propshaft, diff, axles!

So a complete swap!

Engine

The engine has metal headgasket and hks pistons!

I will put N1 oil pump and maybe I will change the rod studs with arp because I don't know what previous owner had or I will change the rods with cheap forged! Also I will put a cheap single topmount manifold and I will put a big turbo... I don't know yet what to choose! A friend can give me a big brand new turbonetics with unknown indentify (.96 a/r and 72mm turbine wheel at the small diameter)

Do you think that stock rods will handle 600whp easy?

Gearbox

How fast I will destroy the third gear?

Clutch

Os Giken twin plate can handle the power?

Fuel

I have a walbro 255l/h walbro in tank pump!

I need a bigger? I need two pumps? How I will connect it? Parrarel? or Inline? Stock fuel pipes diameter are ok?

I read for surge tank... I need it? Can anyone explain me better how exactly I will connect a surge tank? Any scheme?

I will put 740injectors... on stock fuel rail is ok right?

Also I will put a nismo fpr!

Ecu

Two z32 mafs with stock ecu remap. I don't know where to find a Y pipe from mafs to turbo but I will try!

Other bits..

Big 600x300x100mm fmic and koyo 52mm radiator! Maybe and an oil cooler!

Maybe a silicon heater hoses kit (ebay) but I don't know if it is usefull for me...

I have 3" exhaust and maybe I will stay with this and I will add a handmade elbow and first pipe!

Please reply me as more questions as you can and please tell me what ever you think that I will do wrong or I miss!

Edited by GreeceS13
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Stock rods, no way reliable, clutch will be marginal at best, 3rd will blow if your drifting and rough with it. Twin 044 pumps, Greddy do a y-pipe for the AFM's. Maybe you should reconsider your power level, as your looking at 20k to make the power you want on top of what you have already spent.

if its for drift id say a Trust T67 with a Twin plate ORC 709D clutch or any twin plate with a 700hp or more power ability, rebuilt bottem end with either prepped rods or steel rods, decent sized cams from hks, 720cc or so injectors, 044 fuel pump x2 with surge tank, RB25 box with a PPG gearset, alloy rad and oil cooler with a trust vspl or drag cooler, power fc ecu with two r33 or z32 afms with the greddy y pipe if going single.

You wont exactly make 600hp.. but will be very very fast and powerful

if you want more, T78 T04z T88 T51R kai are a good choice also

just for drag? if so look at a gearset from ppg or osgiken and in that order.

i have a modded 4wd transfer for sale if you get stuck doing the 4wd - 2wd mods. the GTR CANNOT be easily trasnsfered into at GTT or GTST box housing. It is easier to mod the transfer case or sell the lot and buy a gtst or GTT box.

do a search in driveline i have written a few things on the GTR box conversion

No it isn't for drift.... everyday car and DRAG :ph34r:

I find in very very cheap price osgiken twin plate! It isn't good to handle the power at all? I want to do 10.5s!

LTHLRB

I will do as much as I can...

I can run with stock remapping ecu right? So I don't need pfc!

I have rb26 gearbox so I will try to put it... I read somewhere that it can be put to S13!

I cannot buy right now gearset so I will stay with stock and I will run with less boost at 3rd gear the most of times to save it as much as I can and when it will dead the 3d I will go for os giken full gearset or rebuild the stock if I will not have money!

Hmmm you suggest me steel rods right? Hmmmm ok I must buy it... :)

I have intercooler 600x300x100mm isn't good for what I want and you suggest me trust drag?? :|

if it was me doing the ecu, id just put a pfc or get trent to do a full emu setup..

run a T78 or a T88 turbo if you like trust.. if not a T51R or T04z, a mate of mine ran 11.3 @ 133mph in a 33 4 door and semi slicks, so he spun them hard.

you can use the box, but you can always sell it up and use a GTST or GTT box with a dog engagement set

100mm thick cooler is good for your plans, never said it wasnt good.

Fuel system MUST be there, so if i was doing this i would do it big.. 2x external pumps and surge tank, 800 - 1000cc injectors.

if your going to run a big power engine and be reliable, then a full set of forged pistons and eagle steel rods or whatever else you can get. While the engine is apart, get your tuner or engine builder to put a decent set of cams in.. you can even speak to URAS or the boys at CREATD on piecing together good engines, they really know their stuff.

You can run full power in 3rd gear, but make sure you select them clean otherwise you will smash syncros etc with big power.

Also with a good clutch package, your going to be running a decent slick so i would say put a Tripple plate clutch in because you want it to last more than a couple of outings yes? might be a bitch on the street but its what happens when you build a tough car.

A Two way LSD diff would be good, for a clean and straight launch.

If you want to know anything about jap stuff to build a killer engine package speak to Trent (URAS) hese very very good with this sort of stuff..

Edited by LTHLRB

Thanks guys for your help!

I am from Greece and here is very difficult to find everything from skyline... so I cannot find rb25 gbox and sell rb26!

So I will try to do the conversation... uras I did small search and I don't find your thread tha you said me! I will try more.. but if you know the link tell me please!

But I don't understand something... I can run full power with 3rd gear?? So the problem isn't to the gears? It is to synchros?

With gearset osgiken or pfg you leave the stock synchros right? So why to put gearset?

I read that the big problem is that the 3rd gears tooths destroying with theese power level!

Ok I don't know yet what turbo I will choose...

I have from my friend brand new turbonetics but I think that it is bigger than what I want.... I think that it is for 800hp! And it is thross 360.. no ball bearing... so it will be very very slow spool right?

I don't understand how I will connect 2 external pumps and a surge tank... have anyone any scheme connection?

Your friend with 11.3 what mods has? But I must do 10.5.. no faster... this is the limit of my drag category!

Also I will stay to stock head and cams and cam gears because I don't have money :) Nevermind for some horses less :ph34r:

my friend has a rb25 with trust t78, manual. With 400kw.

I have seen 10sec silvias with std gbox so u need to b easy on them.

If ur setup is right spool wont b a problem eith ball bearing or bush.

With ppg gearsets u dont use syncros. Just dog teeth gears. Search ppg on this site or dog box.

Yes but with the os giken gears you use stock synchros right?

So the problem is with synchros or with 3rd gear!

Anyway because I don't have money now to buy gear sets either ppg or osgiken I will stay at stock and as you said me I will be easy with it!!!

If I will see that the stock can survive some time I will rebuild it with stock parts!

If I see that it can handle the power for some time I will go for gear set!

My big problem is the clutch... can I do 10.5 with os giken?? :thumbsup:

It is very cheap... so maybe I will buy it and if it isn't enought good for me I will sell it to SR20 boys as we have the same type of clutch.. push type!

Stock diff I hope to do the work because I don't have money for 2way! I read very good comments for stock gtr diff!!

URAS as you have S13... gtr axles have the same lenght as s13 abs axles? (the shafts from diff to hubs)

All r32 gtr have abs?

So 440rwkw…

Just to start… You know you don’t need anywhere near that power for a mid 10 sec pass in a S13 yes?

Probably 350rwkw would get you there, and make the budget FAR more affordable.

GTR Rods - a risk rods for 440rwkw IMO

Walbro - not a chance it will flow even half the required fuel

Gearbox - with traction, you will destroy it eventually. Should be right for a while as your RWD mode, not 4WD

Diff - anything decent in the LSD aftermarket will do.

Clutch - you'll be lucky if it holds. Big power, Big RPM launches it wont like it forever, but it will last a while.

Fuel - Stock rail/FPR is perfectly fine. Surge might be needed if your hooking up hard

Turbo - 440rwkw is T04Z territory, .82 rear.

Exhaust - 4" all the way will be required for anything over 400rwkw.

IMO, i'd go for less power and it will save you a fortune and still get what you want (10 sec pass)

Right now your parts list and what not is about 5-10k shy of where it needs to be if you want it reliable as ive noted above.

And being international, its even harder again for you hence i think going for a bit less might be better in the long run.

Just my thoughts

benny kashima ran 10.4 or something like that with a t04z and around 400rwkw with a stock sr20 box and running a full house sr20det in a 180sx.. so a t4z will be good on the rb26.. better to make upto the 400kw mark to be sure you will run that time..

i keep reading the word "cheap" and "not enough money at this time" in yours posts and i dont think those words and 600rwhp go in the same sentence im afraid. lower the power goals and u will save a hell of alot of $$$ and maintain a streetable reliable 10 sec package. A 180sx here with a rb26 built engine and a gt3540r with 530rwhp runs 10.6 so its about the target u need for your times.

Edited by unique1

A car like that would simply be a money pit, as a street car, well s13 with rb26 without heavily mod suspension will drive like a PIG..

cheaper to run a solid sr20det. 10s are already achieved with this motor. Built rb26 is abit overkill for the weight of the car and HP it will produce plus the $$$ it will require to maintain it. But it would make a good talking point. No one has mention, how are you going to stop this beast once it's well into it stride.

GTR Rods - a risk rods for 440rwkw IMO

Id like to know how many GTR rods have failed at this (or even higher) power level due to their "weakness"...and im not talking rod bolts but just the conrods.

id say NONE

this is due to two things

the rod construction itself (thick cross-section and quality base material)

the short stroke of the RB26 which reduces side loading of the rod

id even go as far to say some of the cheaper aftermarket rods would be weaker and would like to see a mythbusters style test to prove it. Ill donate some stockers!

I dont think many have risked it enough as yet.

I know you have pushed it, but i don't think there are many more that have gone down the same road Paul :D

What you've done is great, and im the first to back it as ive seen a few similar setups and im certainly not trying to discredit it at all.

To me the reality is 'most' people are running a full Jap bottom end (piston/rods/stock crank) or a stroker with all the fruit.

There are select people such as yourself who has pushed it and gone really well.

I'd just like to see a few more (if they are out there, post up?) and that would be enough to sway me :(

I also think $800 rods are a risk too... as if its too cheap, its too good to be ....

Thanks guys for your help!

I am from Greece and here is very difficult to find everything from skyline... so I cannot find rb25 gbox and sell rb26!

So I will try to do the conversation... uras I did small search and I don't find your thread tha you said me! I will try more.. but if you know the link tell me please!

But I don't understand something... I can run full power with 3rd gear?? So the problem isn't to the gears? It is to synchros?

With gearset osgiken or pfg you leave the stock synchros right? So why to put gearset?

I read that the big problem is that the 3rd gears tooths destroying with theese power level!

Ok I don't know yet what turbo I will choose...

I have from my friend brand new turbonetics but I think that it is bigger than what I want.... I think that it is for 800hp! And it is thross 360.. no ball bearing... so it will be very very slow spool right?

I don't understand how I will connect 2 external pumps and a surge tank... have anyone any scheme connection?

Your friend with 11.3 what mods has? But I must do 10.5.. no faster... this is the limit of my drag category!

Also I will stay to stock head and cams and cam gears because I don't have money :D Nevermind for some horses less :(

here u go mate here my link to a rb26dett in to a s13 silvia that ive done it doesnt tell u everything but its a start

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=159194&hl=

Thank you very much for your help guys!! :D:blink:

Are you sure that I can do 10.5 with 350rkw?

Without any wheigh reduction and without drag slicks (small drag greek category rules)??

I can run only street drag tires like Mickey Thompson Et Street!

255/60/15 is good?

So it is better to leave the stock rods with arp bolts or to go for eagle?

I don't have money for more expensive rods than eagle :cool:

Ok no walbro.. so what?

Can I run with one big internal pump or I need two pumps?

Stock fuel pipes are ok?

Also I read that the last injector don't has enought fuel.. I need to moddify my rail for two fuel feeds from both sides and the drain in the middle of the rail?

unique1 Yes you hear the world "cheap" because I don't have too much money.. and I will try to make what I want as cheaper as I can! If I had money I will not ask you something... I would bought everything that produce the jap brands! :)

As I said I will try stock gearbox and diff and we will see..! ;)

I don't know yet what turbo to choose! T04Z is a bit expensive comparable with GT35 for example!

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...2R_714568_2.htm

If I put a GT35 (0.82 or 1.06... I don't know which will be good for me) with what boost I will see 350 or 400rwkw?

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