Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question.

I have just gotten my hands on a rb30det (loom, ecu, turbo all there), with rb25 gearbox, and was planning on stuffing these into my r32 manual gtst. Having basically very little knowledge, and no experience in doing this conversion, I was wondering whether there are any issues with this proposed conversion, or does the engine fit straight in, like a rb25 would?

I am planning on ripping out the rb20det and gearbox out myself, respraying my engine bay and then towing the car to the shop that is going to do the conversion. but to save on time, and any potential hassles, was wondering whether i would need to provide any additional bits and pieces for this. I have purchased some new engine mounts, but apart from that, i can't think of anything else that they might need.

Any help on this would be appreciated, as the car will probably be going in on either monday or tuesday.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202546-rb30det-into-r32/
Share on other sites

well that's good news. what about all the mounting and bracing underneath? all lines up fine? already got a front facing plenum on it, so should hopefully have no worries. will have to see about the high mount turbo though. might need a new manifold for it

the solution is to modify the Rb20 engine mounts (metal brackets) and cut them down some 20 mm then reweld them up, this will lower the engine to a more desirable height, however the sway bar will foul and the sump will be lower then the crossmember, so spacve the bar down and fit a bashplate and these issues are then nothing to worry about.

I had to remove my strut brace, have a stock 25DE plenum on there and it rubs slightly on the front corner and also slightly on the timing belt cover.. I spaced the back of the bonnet up 10mm so it doesnt try to buckle the bonnet every time I shut it..

Forward facing plenum will go on with the new turbo, all measurements for the GT35R high mount appear that it will clear as it will sit just below the crossover pipe. Will likely "massage" the timing belt cover slightly, don't need to gain much.. 5mm maybe.

Does the 30 have all the ancillaries bolted on? if not you'll need to modify the power steering pump bracket (cut the top boss flush with the lower two), other than that I don't remember anything else that needed modifying (apart from shuffling all the pipework so the bonnet would close!).

Edited by bubba

RB30 did not end up fitting. Mainly due to the design of the front facing plenum on the thing. Stuck up by a couple of centimetres. Could have had another plenum fabricated, but that and the retune would have put my budget out by a fair bit. So rb25 it was. Car will be back on the road on monday at the latest. Trying to source a bloody pfc at the moment that is reasonably priced is proving impossible as well.

also, if somebody in the brisbane area has a r32 2way they are willing to sell, pm me :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...