Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay the auction sheet for my Cefiro stated it had a 2.5L. When it arrived it was found to have an RB20 head.

We've since pulled this engine down and discovered 83mm bores. Stock cast pistons of some form and what I'm pretty sure are RB26 rods. Can someone confirm these please.

Also is there an easy way of identifying a GTR crank?

post-15238-1200966252_thumb.jpg

Edited by D-limo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202599-do-i-have-an-rb24/
Share on other sites

O5U = RB26

Check the stroke of the crank, slip it back into the block and measure it, RB26 = 73.7 mm

83 mm bore X 73.7 mm stroke = 2394 cc's

Cheers

Gary

66mm :) What does that make it like an RB22??

I thought GTR rods could only be used with GTR cranks?

This is interesting :D

So what block's it got for that stroke? Someone know?

It's like a hot-pot of every RB engine all in one!

The RB20, RB25 and RB26 blocks are all the same height, the RB30 block is 38mm taller.

66 mm stroke x 83 mm bore = 2,143 cc's

I seriously doubt the 66 mm stroke, an RB20 is 69.7 mm standard, so I see no reason why anyone would destroke it. Plus you would run into low gudgeon pin height problems. The 69.7 (RB20), 71.7 (RB25) and 73.7 (RB26) strokes can all be accommodated with the right choice of gudgeon pin height in the piston But 66 mm would require a very low gudgeon pin height to get the piston to the top of the bore. I don't think so.

Cheers

Gary

RB20 + rb20 rods + 83mm bore pistons is a rb22

RB20 + rb26 rods + rb26 crank + 83mm bore pistons is a rb24

if the strokes different they could be 4agze pistons because they fall short of the deck by 3mm so the stroke may be shorter because the blocks been decked to suite 4agze pistons.

My 2 cents

The pistons have UNISA stamped on the so I think that rules out 4AGZE??

It was running an East Bear 1.8mm HG so is it possible that pistons have a high gudgeon pin height?

I didn't actually measure the stroke myself but the guy who did has built Ferrari engines so I think he got it right..

The crank is still installed btw

Sydneykid whats next?? Is there even a next lol

Thanks for the input gents its much appreciated :)

Edited by D-limo
RB20 + rb20 rods + 83mm bore pistons is a rb22

RB20 + rb26 rods + rb26 crank + 83mm bore pistons is a rb24

if the strokes different they could be 4agze pistons because they fall short of the deck by 3mm so the stroke may be shorter because the blocks been decked to suite 4agze pistons.

My 2 cents

Pistons have no effect on stroke. Stroke is the distance the piston travels up and down the bore. Whether it has high or low gudget pins makes no difference to the stroke.

Cheers

Gary

The pistons have UNISA stamped on the so I think that rules out 4AGZE??

It was running an East Bear 1.8mm HG so is it possible that pistons have a high gudgeon pin height?

I didn't actually measure the stroke myself but the guy who did has built Ferrari engines so I think he got it right..

The crank is still installed btw

Sydneykid whats next?? Is there even a next lol

Thanks for the input gents its much appreciated :rolleyes:

Measure the stroke again, if you didn't use a dial guage last time, then use one this time. Rotate the crank such that the piston is at the top of the bore (TDC), and zero the dial gauge. Then rotate the crank 1/2 a turn until it is at the bottom of the bore (BDC). The distance the piston travelled is the stroke.

The previous engine builder would have fitted the 1.8 mm had gasket to lower the compression ratio. The same sized combustion chamber with more capacity (bore and stroke) means higher compression ratio. The 1.8 mm head gasket effectively increases the capacity of the combustion chamber and hence lowers the compression ratio. Personally I am not a fan of thick head gaskets, for one they stuff up the squish and cause detonation.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...