Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 With Twin Afm's, If I Get Them Mixed Up Will The Car Not Start?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im trying to figure out why my car aint starting, i suspect my cas is the fault(as we dropped it), but i was thinking, if the AFM's were switched when plugged in, would this cause the same problem???, im sure ive plugged them in correctly, but just want to make sure,for me to test this though, id have to remove the arc air box etc, bt of work invloved, as one of the plugs can only reache to the afm, which is the reason why i think i have them setup correcty....is there an easy way to test this???as my car aint starting at all right now!, will my car start without the afms plugged in?

thanks

Edited by nsta

None of the above will stop the car starting. Check for trouble codes in the ecu. Have you puled the cas out and turned it by hand to see if the injetors are clicking yet? A troubled CAS will pull a trouble code in the ecu.

Hey, yes when i turn the cas unit, i hear the injectors clicking.....does this mean that its working fine?, i just refitted my new head, and since its not working.....Timing is spot on, when i turn the keys, car almost starts, then a vacuum sound comes through the intake, and then nothing....i dnt know what it is...

If i can hear clicking in the injectors with the cas unit, does this usually mean that the cas unit is fine?

Replaced cas, car started immediately, but was running very rough....is it usual for my engine to have noisy lifters for awhile after replacing headgasket and doing a bit of headwork?....im scared as someone said thats usual, while another said that could be your valves bent:(.....knocking in other words...i dont know how to tell the difference, someone is coming to have a look at it tommorow....

Well the timing and everything is spot on, i removed everything and rechecked, but my car seems to be still rattling, i thought it was the lifters, as they were noisy before i even replaced the gasket(when the motor was fine)....but this sound is amplified by 10!, i mean the more revs, the more noise they make, which makes me think they are knocks, im getting a mechanic to check today...

Thats something the head reconditioner's would have done (hope they did)......could this be the noise?, if so, im going to be annoyed if i have to remove head again because of something they didnt do......

i did recheck the timing, and it was off by maybe a tooth, so im going to get the guy whos coming around to redo the timing and see if that helps, will having the timing off by a tooth cause bent valves and danger zone?....i heard someone who was out by 2 teeth and was running shit performance, but fine otherwse.....

Im crossing my fingers its not Big ends (knocking).....could knocking occur due to wrong timing?

If BB says it can get noisy then yes that could be the noise :(

What head work did you get done? Was there cam work? Maybe the head guy thought your tuner would do the clearances.

You can set the clearances with the head on - just need to take the cam covers off (no shit huh?)

incorrect valve clearances will definitely give you a noisy valve train and often it's difficult to pick bottom of engine noises from head noises. it's possible they didn't think it worth checking (unlikely), or maybe couldn't get a hold of the shims needed (less common these days, than it used to be), but I wouldn't point the finger just yet. this is just a diagnosis phase. I don't think having the timing out by 1 tooth would cause any engine damage, but at the same time I wouldn't promise that it wont either. get that fixed and try again. some one with a good ear for RB26 should be able to tell you what the noise is. It can be tough as there are lots of noises going on. injectors are noisy, clutch fan is noisy, and the valve train is a little noisy too (though usually not as loud as the injectors).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didn't know about induction heaters but checked them out and they look awesome but too pricey for the occasional job like this. And I'm too nervous to take a flame anywhere near there as the petrol tank is so close, although I was intrigued with the crayons suggestion 😁 I filled a coke bottle lid with penetrating fluid and raised it on the jack so the nut was submerged in it all night. Then went in with a tiny cold chisel and got it almost to the point of splitting but not quite (I didn't want to damage the bolt threads). Then I hammered a socket back on and gently worked it until I felt movement. And it's off 😀
    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
×
×
  • Create New...