Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting Hks Gt2835 Pro S On R33 Gts-t

zafeniak

By zafeniak,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted
The people I talked to about this said go the 0.87 housing on an RB25DET , its supposed to spool not much higher than std though it'd need to be tuned properly . Also I'd be doing something very soon with the cat because the compliance type are not exactly a free flowing item . It would be a shame to fit a 3000+ kit and choke it up with exhaust restrictions .

Someone here supplied me with a direct fit 3" Catco and the difference was quite noticeable - and that's with a std turbo and a quiet Nismo exhaust .

Also it may pay you to ask around and see what people think about the 3037 Pro S with a 0.68 A/R turbine housing . I haven't found anyone using this combination on an R33 but their feedback would tell you if it was a little laggy or not .

A bit of homework pays off , cheers A .

i got one. $3400 landed.. fitting tonight :P. (hopefully)

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Well for my 2c woth I believe the 0.68 was intended for RB20's and 0.87's for RB25's .

MadGT4 not trying to split hairs but it sounds like you may have an external gate 0.73 A/R housing with the T2/25/28 (same) flange . I've only seen two A/R sizes for the T3 flanged 2835 and 3037 Pro S turbos and they are .68 and .87 .

Cheers A .

gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted

I've got the .68 on mine - if you're into 95% street driving though if I were you I'd look more in the direction of a gtrs. Then again I think mine needs more tuning work.

I wouldn't consider cams either - I think it's a much higher end upgrade ie 350 rwkw cars. I've got pon cams and they didn't make any noticeable difference. On the road there's bugger all difference between 340rwkw and 370 rwkw - just that you're more likely to have a much torquier car to drive with a turbo suited to 340rwkw.

Cheers

post-12959-1202196470_thumb.jpg

zafeniak Enthusiast

zafeniak

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've got the .68 on mine - if you're into 95% street driving though if I were you I'd look more in the direction of a gtrs. Then again I think mine needs more tuning work.

I wouldn't consider cams either - I think it's a much higher end upgrade ie 350 rwkw cars. I've got pon cams and they didn't make any noticeable difference. On the road there's bugger all difference between 340rwkw and 370 rwkw - just that you're more likely to have a much torquier car to drive with a turbo suited to 340rwkw.

Cheers

Full boost is on 4300 rpm, that's laggy if you ask me....

I'd be running about 16 PSI, so about 4100 RPM full boost, still, pretty laggy....

That's like 1000 rpm more than the GT-RS.

And whats with the boost drop? Faulty actuator maybe or boost controller?

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
Full boost is on 4300 rpm, that's laggy if you ask me....

I'd be running about 16 PSI, so about 4100 RPM full boost, still, pretty laggy....

That's like 1000 rpm more than the GT-RS.

And whats with the boost drop? Faulty actuator maybe or boost controller?

i get full boost by 3200rpm (16psi and 251rwkw)

gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted

I've made a lot of changes since that tune. Yeah it is laggy - and everyone I've talked to with the 2835 pro s has had problems with the wastegate blowing open after about 5500. I'm going to install a 19 psi spring and see how that goes. The car is running heaps more timing than it was then and leaner in the mid and top.

I'd like to meet up with anyone in the Brisbane area with the 2835 so I can compare how our cars drive.

Cheers

gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted
Full boost is on 4300 rpm, that's laggy if you ask me....

I'd be running about 16 PSI, so about 4100 RPM full boost, still, pretty laggy....

That's like 1000 rpm more than the GT-RS.

And whats with the boost drop? Faulty actuator maybe or boost controller?

I don't think the bloke put his foot hard down until 4000 so probably not an accurate run. It makes boost earlier than that on the road. He was mucking around with top end timing at that stage so probably wasn't interested in low end boost.

If you're not interested in increasing the capacity of your rb and want an excellent 'street' turbo than I'd look at something a bit smaller than the 2835. Cheaper too.

Cheers

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

I think some confusion exists here on who's running an RB20 and who has an RB25 , the differences are significant with that 500cc's and the better 25 head .

I think a mid 200's kw turbo is going to be noticably "laggier" with a 2000cc 6 because it can't make the off boost torque or generate the exhaust gas energy necessary to drive these turbos into boost without some revs going .

Realistically speaking a GT2871R 52T (HKS version = GT-RS) would be more responsive on an RB20 because it has a GT28 turbine in a GT28 turbine housing .

One more time now and forever , I reckon you must screw as much light load advance into an engine now wearing a higher flowing turbo as it can take because the original tune would have been limited by greater restriction and retarted timing to avoid detonation . The best engine/turbo combination in the world is gonna feel like a worn out Camry if the timing is retarded and AFR's wrong .

Cheers A .

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted
I would check that greenline includes the Australian import taxes before you make the decision. For a street car, i would also recommend the smaller ex housing, in 90% road situations it will be better. The .68 may make 12rwkw less at 7000rpm, but ill bet it makes 20rwkw more at 3000rpm.

I got the GT3037 Pro S kit from JPS! was like $3450 i know its another $800 but seems well worth it. 420PS to 480PS i also got the 0.68 rear. aparantally comes on boost around 2000RPM!! how sweet is that.. 1000RPM lower or so than stock! :banana: i like.

im sure the GT2835 is also a great turbo. however i still would have spent the extra and gotten the full bolt up kit, the dump flange is reallyyy weird... and all the lines and gaskets also get pricy. the 3037 also comes with the suction pipe, heat shield, other heat shield thingi.. so u dont need to buy 1 single part. i was looking at the 2835 too however it was nearly the same in price for the full bolt on kit. nengun came within $30 or so of JPS 's price on the 3037. I really do think the 0.87 rear is a waste of time for a street driven car.. who wants to rev the hell outta the engine to make max power at 7000RPM? id rather it slightly lower in the rev range ;).. If your not wanting to go all the extra expense for the extra 20PS i would rather just go the GTRS :)... will bolt to factory dump) if i have said anything stupid please feel free to correct!

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi SLYDA , I'm interested to hear how the .68 AR housing and 3037 goes on an R33 . Just be sure to check inside the mounting flange where it should have 68 or .68 cast into it . At least one person here bought a 2835 Pro S optioned with the .68 housing and it turned out to be the .87 housing , apparently even the packing box said 0.68 A/R .

Cheers A .

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Slightly off thread from a 2835 :D , but I share the interest.

I'll back it in that there would be little to separate that unit from The Mafia's similar unit running a Garrett 0.63 A/R housing. :)

I'm interested to hear how the .68 AR housing and 3037 goes on an R33 .
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

well, I can say that the GT3037 and the Garrett 0.63 rear housing is like a f**ken hooker on speed.

full boost at 4100rpm (20psi) and makes 310rwkw before the back pressure starts to show its ugly head.

oh, and its not laggy..... Between the 2871 48trim and this one, I'd say the difference under 3,000rpm is barely noticable. Driven 2 x R33s with these setups, and Dale_FZ1 is just waiting to drive my car to confirm this.

Don't worry dale, I'll get down there sometime soon I hope :)

MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted
MadGT4 not trying to split hairs but it sounds like you may have an external gate 0.73 A/R housing with the T2/25/28 (same) flange . I've only seen two A/R sizes for the T3 flanged 2835 and 3037 Pro S turbos and they are .68 and .87 .

Cheers A .

The .72 housing is on the turbo at the moment and the .68 is in the box still..

From what im lead to beleive the .72 is actually a Garrett housing... And i can 100% tell you this housing was never a externally gated housing.

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted
Hi SLYDA , I'm interested to hear how the .68 AR housing and 3037 goes on an R33 . Just be sure to check inside the mounting flange where it should have 68 or .68 cast into it . At least one person here bought a 2835 Pro S optioned with the .68 housing and it turned out to be the .87 housing , apparently even the packing box said 0.68 A/R .

Cheers A .

I may be able to answer that question for you in a couple of weeks, installed my 3037 a few weeks ago, just waiting for some parts to arrive then will be getting it tuned :banana:

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted
Hi SLYDA , I'm interested to hear how the .68 AR housing and 3037 goes on an R33 . Just be sure to check inside the mounting flange where it should have 68 or .68 cast into it . At least one person here bought a 2835 Pro S optioned with the .68 housing and it turned out to be the .87 housing , apparently even the packing box said 0.68 A/R .

Cheers A.

Ill check when i get home!! i think it is a .68 does not look like a massive rear housing.

I may be able to answer that question for you in a couple of weeks, installed my 3037 a few weeks ago, just waiting for some parts to arrive then will be getting it tuned ;)

Ill let you know but im waiting on quite a few parts, may be a few months :S.. haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...