Jump to content
SAU Community

What Oils/oil Filter

mr.33

By mr.33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

WET-25T Collaborator

WET-25T

Posted
Posted

Hey,

As everyone says "search and you shall find" but in a ruder tone. All this info has been covered its just a matter of finding it. Anyways i did mine about a week or 2 ago and it went like this:

Oil: Motul 4100 turbolight 10W/40, 5L $49.99 @ autobarn.

Oil filter: Ryco Z145 $15.80 @ autobarn (i think i got 10% off).

As for the filter you can get a nissan genuine filter, $15 i think.

After alot of research thats what i ended up using and in future will use the motul oil and genuine nissan filter. Theres no point in using motul 300v unless your heading for the tracks.

Incase your going to ask i bought genuine coolant from nissan and bought spark plugs and a fuel filter from autobarn so if you want to know the numbers for them let me know.

PHILR34GTT Newbie

PHILR34GTT

Posted
Posted

CASTROL EDGE 10w60 as recomended to me by a Drift Mechanic I run it in my RB25DET R34 last couple off services and used to always in my old S14A Silvia SR20DET try to stick to a genuine Nissan oil filter if you can!!!! Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra had some V-Tec trouble changed the oil with this and fixed it.

hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted
Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra

Very nice, them dc5s are hot! Anyways back to the original post, what was also covered was, any decent full synthetic will do if ur gonna drop the oil every 5000kms.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)
CASTROL EDGE 10w60 as recomended to me by a Drift Mechanic I run it in my RB25DET R34 last couple off services and used to always in my old S14A Silvia SR20DET try to stick to a genuine Nissan oil filter if you can!!!! Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra had some V-Tec trouble changed the oil with this and fixed it.

Usually you only have VTEC trouble when the oil gets low :)

Seems to me like the old oil/filter combo comes down to personal preference. What works for you is fine.

Iv always used Magnatec in my cars, previous DC2 Type R, regularly tracked. And i never had any problems of pressure loss due to heat etc etc. So i continue to use it in my R33 GTS25t. So far so good. I read so many things bout people saying it is shit, but its always what the person has "heard" or "read". Never actually had any hard evidence of it being shit. Haha

Regular 5000km changes of oil.filter = :D

Edited by gotRICE?
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted (edited)

Preferbley find an oil that works well and stick to it.

I had to find an oil that as not too think / too thin.

I have tried Martini Full Synthetic 10W 40 (Bit too thin and burned off too easily) / Valvaline 20W 50 (TOO THICK!!... no go) Shell Helex 15W 50, OK but in the long run no good.

Final Mobil Sythetic S 10W 40 which was a semi sythetic oil and the car runs very smooth.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted

A 10w-60 is good for the track but to thick for street driven cars you should be looking at a 10w-40 or lower.

Any synthetic - Motul, Redline, Royal purple, Mobil 1, Castrol, Penrite.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

i use the nw DRIFT oil filters, $19 magnet, nut on end for easy removal etc.. best filter around.

oh never use penrite sin stuff sucks in rb's.... used in customer cars when they supplied it excessive pressure drop and excess noise after 2000kms when other oils are fine, i stick to redline 10w40 and motul 10w-40 300v

^^^ 3/4 sounds right.

chak8080 Collaborator

chak8080

Posted
Posted
i use the nw DRIFT oil filters, $19 magnet, nut on end for easy removal etc.. best filter around.

oh never use penrite sin stuff sucks in rb's.... used in customer cars when they supplied it excessive pressure drop and excess noise after 2000kms when other oils are fine, i stick to redline 10w40 and motul 10w-40 300v

^^^ 3/4 sounds right.

Thanks, I'll try it out this weekend.

br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

Ryco Z145a Filters. ~10$

Mobil 1 5w-50w fully syn. ~68$

Usually dont need to buy the expensive filters as most likely u will change them every 5000kms. But if u want to keep them longer then go for it :happy:

chak8080 Collaborator

chak8080

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was running Apexi UFO's (~$15-$20 USD) on my ER34 RB25DET(Neo) and BCNR33 RB26DETT. Now I have these Sard Sports Mag+ Filters SMF00(~$15-$20 USD). Hopefully they'll fit and workout alright.

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15w-50 Extended Performance $8 USD a liter.

Edited by chak8080
mark77s Rookie

mark77s

Posted
Posted

Running German Castrol 5w-40 in an R32 GTR, filter oem

Still trying to figure out why people use a 10-20w in thier cars unless your racing? The most engine damage is done starting the engine cold the lower the first digit the better. A 10w oil is thicker at startup compared to a 0w or 5w. No oil gives total lubrication when cold but hence the oil companies are leaning towards lower first digit oils now e.g 0w. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at operating temps, 40 is good for skylines unless racing in hot conditions. Also its better to use an API rating of SL or SM rather than SJ which is stated in the oem manual as the SL and SM are a better oil using the latest technology and wernt around when SJ was popular. You will get better results in regards to maximum cam plus lifter wear, sludge build up, high temperature volatility amongst alot of other things with an API rating of SL or SM over SJ. SM should be better than SL

Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. Use these oils if you plan on taking your engine apart and cleaning it every few weeks

This site is very helpul explaining oils

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...