Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I decided to put $10 into of Mobil 8000 into my civic from Braddon 2 weeks ago as BPU was out for some reason. Even though it only a 1.5L honda, it stills runs really zippy on 98. I noticed it was sluggish and i mean like a truck and it even F'ed up my fuel sender, so now when it gets empty is jumps up to half full and sticks there till have about 1 L in there and it starts dropping down. I filled up with Vortex (96) and it was back to its little zippy self. I don't completly trust Mobil as it has never felt 100% right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3735691
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just letting everyone know not to expect V-power for a while yet, if anyone understand how V-power is made a bit on the filtration pumping system blew up...so that has to be replaced and they need to order it custom made from China or Germany or wherever and as it is rather...huge...they need it shipped SAL...it has yet to even arrive in Australia.

If you have a preference for V-power and are in sydney, the 7/11 petrol stations stock it as their premium.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3774551
Share on other sites

I just make a note to stay away from woolies and coles. I used v power and it seemed fine. Then again so did mobil... I always fill up on mobil cos my car seems to like it the most. I filled up with BP while i was in sydney the other day, really dosn't feel any different. Today I filled up at woolies with their vortex 98, and again, i didn't notice any difference, if anything I think the car feels better than it did with BP. So what Have I gained? That most 98's to me seem the same, unless u have hooked up a comp to the engine management and gave us figures that are off by .0001 or something.

Very confusing when people say my car runs crap on this, this is crap cos it blows engines up, don't use this cos my mum said not to.........I say run ur car on racing fuel if ur that picky, or did your friend say his lancer ran like shit when he filled up with it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3779511
Share on other sites

I just make a note to stay away from woolies and coles. I used v power and it seemed fine. Then again so did mobil... I always fill up on mobil cos my car seems to like it the most. I filled up with BP while i was in sydney the other day, really dosn't feel any different. Today I filled up at woolies with their vortex 98, and again, i didn't notice any difference, if anything I think the car feels better than it did with BP. So what Have I gained? That most 98's to me seem the same, unless u have hooked up a comp to the engine management and gave us figures that are off by .0001 or something.

Very confusing when people say my car runs crap on this, this is crap cos it blows engines up, don't use this cos my mum said not to.........I say run ur car on racing fuel if ur that picky, or did your friend say his lancer ran like shit when he filled up with it?

What are you saying? I'm confused.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3779710
Share on other sites

I guess he's saying that the quality of fuel you get depends on SO many things that you can't really go on the stories given here (or anywhere else really). Because it varies depending on:

- The original content, who's sourcing it (Shell, BP etc... all comes from the same place originally, but I guess they place orders of varying quality).

- The particular servo you fill up at.

- Whoever's running the servo that month/week

- Whoever decides to top up the premium tanks with the regular stuff after hours (I know a person who use to do this)

- How hard your engine is tuned and therefore how susceptible it is tu fuel RON levels.

- Partly impacted by the remaining fuel from your last load (unless you ran it completely empty).

I'm paranoid about my car, and mechanic knows it, so gonna run a dual boost system and high boost will be 17ish (I think). Low boost for when I have to use crummy/suspect fuel. The way I see it, only absolute way to be safe from poor fuel is to use octane booster every load, or get your engine tuned so that if you DO get a poor load, there is some lee-way and your engine will handle it (ie a safe tune rather than a hard one).

Is there such a thing as a home-based RON testing kit? lol What's it mean if the stick goes blue? :)

Edited by sl33py
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780819
Share on other sites

What are you saying? I'm confused.

Was pissed off cos last night i drove around for 15 mins trying to find 98 ron fuel, finally had to get it from woollies caltex (vortex98), never really wanted to fill up at woollies but I did anyway. I was surprised to find my car felt pretty much the same, if anything slightly more beefier.

Just found it funny how many people wrote things like, i filled up with this and it ran shit. Really unless you have used the petrol numerous times can you say its shit.

I think there should be no more posts containing:

"The other day my brothers, cousins, friends, cousins cat said it didn't like woollies petrol." - sounds pretty childish and unsupported lol, not really worth putting people off a certain petrol just because you don't like it.

Rather perhaps let people know where good fuel stations are, Ie if you are around Erindale, the best is Mobil, if your around Tuggers shops go to Shell.....

Unless your engine is tuned to run on a specific fuel, in which case what fuel runs good for you prob doesn't mean anything to me.

Hope that makes sense.

EDIT:

Was near empty yesterday and I was in Fyshwick. Out of 4 servos, none had 98 ron. So I thought I would fill up on the way home (southside) Went past Tuggeranong, which doesnt have 98 octane stuff, shell is out of vpower, woolies dosn't stock 98. Had to go to calwell to fill up. Is there a shortage of 98 or something? ALot of places simply don't have 98. i know when i was in gunghalin (lost) I found the first servo as was about to run dry, and it didn' thave 98. It's happened to me alot!

Edited by 33Sedan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780877
Share on other sites

I guess he's saying that the quality of fuel you get depends on SO many things that you can't really go on the stories given here (or anywhere else really). Because it varies depending on:

- The original content, who's sourcing it (Shell, BP etc... all comes from the same place originally, but I guess they place orders of varying quality).

- The particular servo you fill up at.

- Whoever's running the servo that month/week

- Whoever decides to top up the premium tanks with the regular stuff after hours (I know a person who use to do this)

- How hard your engine is tuned and therefore how susceptible it is tu fuel RON levels.

- Partly impacted by the remaining fuel from your last load (unless you ran it completely empty).

I'm paranoid about my car, and mechanic knows it, so gonna run a dual boost system and high boost will be 17ish (I think). Low boost for when I have to use crummy/suspect fuel. The way I see it, only absolute way to be safe from poor fuel is to use octane booster every load, or get your engine tuned so that if you DO get a poor load, there is some lee-way and your engine will handle it (ie a safe tune rather than a hard one).

Is there such a thing as a home-based RON testing kit? lol What's it mean if the stick goes blue? :)

Haha just abit paranoid ;-)

I agree with the octane booster, would be nice, although when you fill up you pay like 70 bucks for the tank, + 20 bucks for the booster. Pretty freaking expensive lol. Wish I had money :-(

If the stick goes blue, means ur gonna be a proud dad of hopefully some more horses....

Edited by 33Sedan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780886
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...