Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got my series 2 stagea stock as and was getting about 350ks a tank, so i had a carbon clean done on the fuel system cost me $120 and i was then getting 450km to 550km a tank then I had aftermarket ecu, intercooler, fuel pressure regulator, splitfire ignition coils, 3 inch mandrel turbo back exhaust, eboost2 running 14 psi, 500hp intank fuel pump, apexi power intake, and now i get around 300kms to 350kms a tank now I want to sell the beast.

I got my series 2 stagea stock as and was getting about 350ks a tank, so i had a carbon clean done on the fuel system cost me $120 and i was then getting 450km to 550km a tank then I had aftermarket ecu, intercooler, fuel pressure regulator, splitfire ignition coils, 3 inch mandrel turbo back exhaust, eboost2 running 14 psi, 500hp intank fuel pump, apexi power intake, and now i get around 300kms to 350kms a tank now I want to sell the beast.

hey ben you sound like your driving like your username suggests, but on a more serious note i hope your not running 14psi on a std turbo, and have you had the car tuned since doing mods, fuel usage is way to high , if your driving hard ok consumption is always gunna be shit, but with your mods and tuned properly you should be doing better than that,

anyway hope you sus it out rather than sell it,

goodluck leigh.

I just filled up 59.91lt to the brim, I had done 407k's and it works out to about 14.7/100k's after my first full tank on my stag (only just got it :nyaanyaa: )

thats with a bit of a lead foot throughout the whole tank.... :cheers:

my question is - when the empty light comes on - how many litres does that mean it has left in the tank??

when the empty light came on in my 34 i had 15lt left in the tank......

Edited by FULOCK

well then i must try and drive my car till it get really low. i have only ever been able to squze 55 lt into my car whenever i have filled it up and i normally have driven anywhere from 450 to just over 500 km when i fill up. it seems to me that there is still a fair bit of fuel left when the gauge reads empty.

FULOCK i usually always put fuel in once the light comes on and I always get 58L in... so if the tank is 68L (as said a couple of posts before yours :D) then you'd have 10 ltrs once the fuel light comes on.

Edited by StageaGirl
hey ben you sound like your driving like your username suggests, but on a more serious note i hope your not running 14psi on a std turbo, and have you had the car tuned since doing mods, fuel usage is way to high , if your driving hard ok consumption is always gunna be shit, but with your mods and tuned properly you should be doing better than that,

anyway hope you sus it out rather than sell it,

goodluck leigh.

Yeah had it tuned and yes i am running 14psi on standard turbo was told that was the maximum it could handle. I have wondered if I should take it to someone else to see if it has been tuned do you know of anyone i live on the gold coast

Yeah had it tuned and yes i am running 14psi on standard turbo was told that was the maximum it could handle. I have wondered if I should take it to someone else to see if it has been tuned do you know of anyone i live on the gold coast

Hey buddy just reiterating what others have said.

14psi is what it takes to pretty much kill the turbo instantly. You'd want to step down from 14 a fair bit to make it safe enough to last.

I had mine on 11psi and I think you'll find most people on here keep it around 10-11psi with the stock turbo.

Replacing the turbo with something as good or better is going to be an expensive operation but you do have options and the cost varies from ~$1000 to ~$2500 depending on what you want...and the more expensive ones aren't always better. :P

Mine was averaging 13-14L/100km on the standard turbo (8psi) and 10L/100km on the highway.

Try to get it fixed a bit before selling it cos it will really harm your sale price if the fuel economy isn't great.

I have a M35 Stage and arount town I get about 14L / 100 and on the highway I average 10L / 100

I've done 2 full tanks in city driving (90% of the time just feathering the gas pedal). Both occasions have clocked 500kms which is about 6.25 kms per litre of fuel, or 16L/100kms.

For a later model engine, i think that's pretty pathetic. One of the reasons why I sold my R34 was to get something that gives you good mileage. It's certainly disappointed me so far..

Another note. Spoke to Tony from North Shore Prestige where I got the car from. He suggested a few things to increase economy.

- change plugs

- clean injectors (if they do need cleaning but unlikely he said)

- clean the afm

- get an ebc so you can wind down the boost to say 5 pounds when you dont need the power.

- dont drive with a heavy foot, which im not anyway.

Another note. Spoke to Tony from North Shore Prestige where I got the car from. He suggested a few things to increase economy.

- change plugs

- clean injectors (if they do need cleaning but unlikely he said)

- clean the afm

- get an ebc so you can wind down the boost to say 5 pounds when you dont need the power.

- dont drive with a heavy foot, which im not anyway.

I am getting around 7.5km/litre around town and if I can get some highway driving in (M2 or M5) I am getting this up to 7.8 - 8.0. It is driving a bit like an old lady and not being in a hurry but even when pushing a bit harder I can still get 7.5. The difference seems to be if you can keep moving. The stop start traffic kills the economy.

Cheers

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...