Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r32 gts-t ti has 3 inch cat back exhaust,pod filter, strut bars, coilovers. wondering what mods can i do to make it faster iam getting fmic soon whate else ?? wanting to boost it some time too...i was think myabe a full exhaust system next?? what you guys think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/
Share on other sites

Leave the catback on and change the dump pipe to a larger one, 3" pipe should be fine.

Install a FMIC but nothing too big other wise you can loose power.

Upgrade ECU

Install a boost controller to run a few PSI higher but if ya wanna run HIGH boost you will have to upgrade internals.

Another thing is lightweigh the flywheel. No power gain but you can take off quicker.

BTW if ya wanna get anal about cooling, after installing your FMIC you can install water jets to spary onto the intercooler once the car hits boost to soak out the heat on the FMIC. Mind you topping up water will be frequent. LOL!

OR install a Supercharger for low down revs / and turbos take over when boost kicks in. = Thats a BIG job and mainly for race/High performance applications and it has been done before in Japan. R32 GTR Supercharger Twin Turbo.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3642767
Share on other sites

Leave the catback on and change the dump pipe to a larger one, 3" pipe should be fine.

Install a FMIC but nothing too big other wise you can loose power.

Upgrade ECU

Install a boost controller to run a few PSI higher but if ya wanna run HIGH boost you will have to upgrade internals.

Another thing is lightweigh the flywheel. No power gain but you can take off quicker.

BTW if ya wanna get anal about cooling, after installing your FMIC you can install water jets to spary onto the intercooler once the car hits boost to soak out the heat on the FMIC. Mind you topping up water will be frequent. LOL!

OR install a Supercharger for low down revs / and turbos take over when boost kicks in. = Thats a BIG job and mainly for race/High performance applications and it has been done before in Japan. R32 GTR Supercharger Twin Turbo.

ok yes so what size intercooler would be perfect??? and will it fit the standard front bumper ??? or will i need to custmoise the bar?? after the fmic i will get a dump pipe and high flow cat then boost controler

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3643498
Share on other sites

ok yes so what size intercooler would be perfect??? and will it fit the standard front bumper ??? or will i need to custmoise the bar?? after the fmic i will get a dump pipe and high flow cat then boost controler

i had a 600x300x76 size intercooler on my 32 and didn't have to cut the reo up, just had to skim a fraction off the frontbar itself at the bottom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3643516
Share on other sites

^^Yeah thats it thanks!!!

t2coolerkitr32gtst.jpg

TYPE 2 INTERCOOLER KIT FOR SKYLINE R32 GTS-T

COMPLETE KIT INCLUDING PIPING, HOSES AND CLAMPS

600 X 300 X 75 - INCLUDES POLISHED PIPING

PRICE: $595.00

Found this on the Unique Autosports Online Catalogue Advertised at http://www.300zx.com.au/pricelists/priceli...ylineturbos.htm

Quote "after the fmic i will get a dump pipe and high flow cat then boost controler"

Well ya prety much set. That will get you abit of power under the hood. Take it easy too :)

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3644243
Share on other sites

k what if i don't get a front mount will that restrict a lot of power??? what if i upgrade my side mount is that the same?? cause front mount cops will defect me wont they??

You still can get a FMIC but make sure you don't loose any boost presure. If ya front mount is too big presuer loss can happen and end up loosing power while running standard boost.

600 X 300 X 75, if this size intercooler is still OK for standard boost then go for it, if not upgrade the SMIC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3662330
Share on other sites

ummm, how can you loose boost pressue from a fmic? the wastegate is controlled by pressure so if you have less pressure the wastegate won't be open so the turbo will spool up more until it gets to that pressure.

the only way to 'lose pressure' is if you have a very restrictive cooler and have the wastegate gets its pressure reading from before the cooler and have your gauge after the cooler. this will make it so the turbo is still running at normal pressure, but due to the restriction in the cooler the engine isn't getting as much air.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3662375
Share on other sites

+1 for 600 x 300 x 75.

+1 for front pipe, etc.

I wouldn't worry about water cooling your intercooler unless you live in the Gobi desert. My FMIC is mostly cold to the touch even on hot days. But like (00)Skyline(00) said if you wanna be anal it's an option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3663355
Share on other sites

k what if i don't get a front mount will that restrict a lot of power??? what if i upgrade my side mount is that the same?? cause front mount cops will defect me wont they??

the majority of intercoolers need a hole cut under the battery tray to pass the piping through.

This is illegal and (according to law) affects the structural integrity of the car, if police find the hole, it will be a costly to fix. (lets hope you dont live around Knox area :banana: )

Companies such as Blitz, ARC etc produce return feed intercooler's which use the same piping holes as your standard SMIC, so all legal :dry: Expect to pay $800+ for these branded intercoolers.

Or you can either buy a R34 SMIC customized to r32 or find a ARC SMIC.

I have a r34 smic customized for r32 for sale, pm sent if interested :spam:

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3663801
Share on other sites

ok iam gonna buy my exhaust soon from gktech so i need

a dump pipe+front pipe+high flow cat

or

dump pipe+front pipe+ de-cat pipe

?????

get a single chamber front/dump pipe combo.. saves having an extra gasket for nothing.

i wouldn't advise getting a decat pipe unless you're game.. cops don't like them too much :thumbsup:

my opinion, go with a highflow cat. if you are interested in getting a decat pipe pm me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205833-r32-gts-t-mods/#findComment-3664164
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...