Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

terpentine or spirit and its gone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650613
Share on other sites

when i took my tail lights off, i got some of that goo that holds them in on the rear bumper, i used turpentine to get it off but it did fade the paint quit a bit :D

hey sam how ya been? :(

:) yeh thats what im worried.. the paint on the celica is really good and i dont wanna spoil it.. :(

any other suggestions guys/gals?

cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650759
Share on other sites

hmm.. so i should try to use a hair dryer and heat up the gunk for a few minutes then try to rub it again with the eucalyptus oil?

im just rubbing it with a piece of cloth with eucalyptus oil.. is that right?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650970
Share on other sites

hey mate try and use some critus spray i used it to take off my badges 18 yrs old came off like a charm get it from super cheap read the label

hope it helps

alright ill try that out cheers for that mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3651262
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655089
Share on other sites

I had to take some badges from a Toyota recently and found that the glue had actually eaten into the paint. I ended up having to sand with some 1200 then buff it up. I also recently took some stickers off the side of a tarago and the same deal but the glue had eaten into the paint so much it had to be resprayed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655293
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :teehee: im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :sweat:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655624
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :) im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :)

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :O

John

Edited by Appealing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655987
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :)

John

Thanks alot john im gonna give it a try this evening :) will let you know how it goes

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3656355
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...