Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

terpentine or spirit and its gone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650613
Share on other sites

when i took my tail lights off, i got some of that goo that holds them in on the rear bumper, i used turpentine to get it off but it did fade the paint quit a bit :D

hey sam how ya been? :(

:) yeh thats what im worried.. the paint on the celica is really good and i dont wanna spoil it.. :(

any other suggestions guys/gals?

cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650759
Share on other sites

hmm.. so i should try to use a hair dryer and heat up the gunk for a few minutes then try to rub it again with the eucalyptus oil?

im just rubbing it with a piece of cloth with eucalyptus oil.. is that right?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650970
Share on other sites

hey mate try and use some critus spray i used it to take off my badges 18 yrs old came off like a charm get it from super cheap read the label

hope it helps

alright ill try that out cheers for that mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3651262
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655089
Share on other sites

I had to take some badges from a Toyota recently and found that the glue had actually eaten into the paint. I ended up having to sand with some 1200 then buff it up. I also recently took some stickers off the side of a tarago and the same deal but the glue had eaten into the paint so much it had to be resprayed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655293
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :teehee: im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :sweat:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655624
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :) im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :)

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :O

John

Edited by Appealing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655987
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :)

John

Thanks alot john im gonna give it a try this evening :) will let you know how it goes

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3656355
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...