Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Just a question.. my car's got the 4WDTURBO and TOYOTA badges on it for quite a while.. i guess it was there since it was built.. I removed the badges but the residue is taking a very VERY hard time to get it out.. I tried the NO MORE GOO orange oil and it didnt help.. i tried eucalyptus oil and it doesnt help.. does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Bernard

terpentine or spirit and its gone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650613
Share on other sites

when i took my tail lights off, i got some of that goo that holds them in on the rear bumper, i used turpentine to get it off but it did fade the paint quit a bit :D

hey sam how ya been? :(

:) yeh thats what im worried.. the paint on the celica is really good and i dont wanna spoil it.. :(

any other suggestions guys/gals?

cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650759
Share on other sites

hmm.. so i should try to use a hair dryer and heat up the gunk for a few minutes then try to rub it again with the eucalyptus oil?

im just rubbing it with a piece of cloth with eucalyptus oil.. is that right?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3650970
Share on other sites

hey mate try and use some critus spray i used it to take off my badges 18 yrs old came off like a charm get it from super cheap read the label

hope it helps

alright ill try that out cheers for that mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3651262
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655089
Share on other sites

I had to take some badges from a Toyota recently and found that the glue had actually eaten into the paint. I ended up having to sand with some 1200 then buff it up. I also recently took some stickers off the side of a tarago and the same deal but the glue had eaten into the paint so much it had to be resprayed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655293
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :teehee: im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :sweat:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655624
Share on other sites

wow.. hmm.. i didnt really understand that appealing.. could u sort of maybe list it out in orders like 1,2,3? :) im really scared of using turp.. coz the paints in really great condition.. BUT... heck the car is 18 years old :)

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :O

John

Edited by Appealing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3655987
Share on other sites

Don't use a rag.... use a paint brush and keep the turps on the glue, as runs down just keep brushing it back up.... be patient, time is your friend here. When the glue is soft, get a soft piece of plastic, (so that you don't scratch the paint) and scrape it off, it should roll up like a load of snot, wipe it off on paper (kitchen towel works really well) and repeat this process until it is all off. Use a rag last, to clean up any residue. If you use a rag 1st, you will have to rub hard. This is what generally "fades" the paint, the rubbing, not the turps. If the area looks brighter after, use a paint renovator on the surrounding area, to match it up. The paint under the badge will usually be in better condition than (the sun damaged paint) that's around it. This may not be the case if your car is just in from Japan. The sun is many times less harsh there.

1. Turps should not damage paint. It is a very slow solvent. Meths, thinners etc will damage paint. Other slow solvents that can be tried are kerosene, and diesel, (but I know that they don't work as well.

2. If you use a rag, you will smear the glue as it softens, you also use far more turps. The idea here is to use the solvent (turps) to soften the glue. This only happens while it is in contact with it. Which is why rags are useless.

3. Find a smallish paint brush (10mm is fine) and "paint" the turps onto the glue. It will run down, so use the brush to keep moving it back up.

4. After some time, (usually 2-5 mins) you will find that the glue has softened. Use a soft piece of plastic to get rid of the glue, softer plastic is best as it is less likely to scratch the paint. Lift and scrape the softened glue from the surface, then dispose of it. Sometimes only the top layer will have softened and you may have to repeat parts 3 & 4 several times.

5. When all of the glue is off, then use a rag with turps on it, to get rid of any residue.

6. If required polish the area to match up the rest of the paint.

7. The only paint that is going to be affected by turps is enamel. Do a test patch 1st, somewhere inconspicuous with a rag and see if you get any colour on the rag. If your car is in original paint, I doubt that it has any enamel on it. It is hardly used anymore. Enamel usually goes powdery in the first couple of years.

By the way, I run a sign business in Coogee. I have done lots of badge removal, this way. It works well. If there is still some foam (sponge) from the badge on the car even better as it hold the turps there, right where you need it.

If you still have doubts, PM me, I'll give you my phone number, you can come around and I'll have a look and help you. It's all pretty easy really. :)

John

Thanks alot john im gonna give it a try this evening :) will let you know how it goes

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206312-removing-badges/#findComment-3656355
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...