Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that looks good, should be nice and torquey. It good to see the more extreme conversions still happening.

I doubt there are going to be any turbos on the side of that, by looking and the room just some simple headers look to be a stretch, although if they could make the manifold come to the front of the car, you probably could stick one nice big single in front of the engine.

What car is this out of??

Edited by R34GTFOUR

The VK56 has a pretty bullet proof bottom end.

These things are out of nissan Titans that weigh between 2200kgs to 2400kg's or so and 15.4 sec 1/4 miles out of the lightweight? 2,200kg ones have been done stock. not bad for a full size truck with a 5spd auto-gearbox. People get them into 12's with a small shot of gas . lose 800kgs or so and how fast would you go? :D

the day my engine is knackered im gonna steal dads 400hp+ 5.7 v8 out his ss and put it in my line, the guy who tunes dads ss has a r33 with 5.7 v8 and he is so quick round barbagello,

That would be the Street Force R33 Skyline, that conversion was done years ago, sounds nice as though.

And yeah that car above with the R34 GTR front end on it would be the twin turbo R34 coupe that is bashing around the Drift Australia circuits.

Also in regards to the VK56 conversion, I've seen a couple of people bash around with the VH45DE motor, which would be the motor series before the VK (which are also quad cam alloy V8's that are also a shit load cheaper to buy) in a couple of nissan platforms.

The main issue with the VH45DE was the height issue, with most people resorting to cutting the bonnet open to fit it in. And also finding that a manual gearbox bell housing would have to be fabricated to fit up a manual box. I believe there is a R33 with this conversion floating around in the Naturally Aspirated section with an auto box. Think it has a blower as well.

There are only two V8's that I would bother putting into a skyline and thats the 1UZFE (4.0l alloy quad cam V8) which I wouldnt bother unless there was some sort of forced induction hanging off the side of it....... or the LS1 which are a tough motor as it is, TON'S of aftermarket support like off the shelf turbo kits and have a variety of strong manual gearbox's to bolt up to it. Not to say also that replacement motors are dead cheap.

  • 3 years later...

This engine is also out of a Nissan ARMADA 04-05 5.6L V8 DOHC

its a 4WD or SUV wateva you want to call it probley weighs a fair bit aswell

claimed 317Hp 385 LB-FT Torque.

Edited by HYBRID VL

i have heard alot of good things about the L67 V6 SC like its the strongest engine holden has ever built and stuff like that Guys running 10's with a twin turbo setup on standard internals also heard they are very hard to source and alot are fake standard V6 with a SC on top.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...