Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have an r33 gtst skyline i seem to have problems with it.

when i start the car when its cold the engine feels tip top.

when i drive for a while and the engine satrts to heat up a bit it feels like the car wants to stall and has an idle problem.

when i turn the car on when its hot it takes a little bit to find its idle...

it goes from 100 to 1000 in reving and sometimes stalls when i try.

also when i rev my car a little it sounds like there is a rattle where the timing belt is.

it kicks in at about 1000 and cuts out a little later.

things i have replaced.

oxy sensor

tps

engine and turbo

mods i have

hks airpod filter

carbon battery.

i have video of it

also my throttle cable feels lose as you can see in the video.

$15 will be rewarded with correct awnser for both things that need fixing.

i will slowly replace items once i know whats going on.

on thursday my car will get dignostics done.

i only ask this because everywhere i go machanics are like agrrrr this is the problem but its not really agrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

thanks alex

I've got some money on the AAC valve, or the Cold Start Air Valve (underside of the inlet manifold). But if you've replaced the whole engine, then those would have been replaced.

  • 11 months later...
Yeah sounds like your AAC is stuck open or the regulator is faulty
Pull the plug on and off to see if theres a drop/increase in revs.

What if there is a drop or increase in revs? Which is supposed to happen?

Edited by Neejay
  • 1 month later...
<br />hey i have an r33 gtst skyline i seem to have problems with it.<br />when i start the car when its cold the engine feels tip top.<br />when i drive for a while and the engine satrts to heat up a bit it feels like the car wants to stall and has an idle problem.<br />when i turn the car on when its hot it takes a little bit to find its idle...<br />it goes from 100 to 1000 in reving and sometimes stalls when i try.<br /><br /><br />also when i rev my car a little it sounds like there is a rattle where the timing belt is.<br />it kicks in at about 1000 and cuts out a little later.<br /><br />things i have replaced.<br />oxy sensor<br />tps<br />engine and turbo<br /><br />mods i have <br />hks airpod filter <br />carbon battery.<br /><br /><br />i have video of it<br /><br />also my throttle cable feels lose as you can see in the video.<br />$15 will be rewarded with correct awnser for both things that need fixing.<br />i will slowly replace items once i know whats going on.<br />on thursday my car will get dignostics done.<br />i only ask this because everywhere i go machanics are like agrrrr this is the problem but its not really agrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr<br />thanks alex<br />
<br /><br /><br

wow, we are in pretty similar situations, Ive done a rebuild, done the turbo and only got a pod filter. Yeah only rebuild the long block, so kinda sems like they gave me back this amazing engine block surrouned by sh*tty parts lol. my idle used to be all over the place, so i began replacing parts. i replaced the IAC valve,then eventually the whole unit, got new tps, got it re positioned, got a new throttle body and cleaned the unit out. That worked for my idle issues, never stalled or hunted around much again, only rarely. I'd also check for any vacuum leaks or cracked hoses, ask ur mech to do a compression test. rebuilt engines have so much power when everything around them is running right. also for your rattle, I'd suggest u check that all the bolts up font are tightened. Good luck wit it

Ben

  • 9 months later...

Ben, I am currently having problems very similar to this and you said you replaced your IACV Valve and i have ben told thats what i need to do but i am having a lot of trouble finding out where to get one, Nissan don't want to sell me the valve alone they want me to buy the entire unit and that is around $1k for something i dont need, could you tell me where you got your new/used one from please? I have a 1996 R33 series II.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...