Jump to content
SAU Community

Making A Professional Heatsheild/pod Cover/air Box At Cost!

WYTSKY

By WYTSKY,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

WYTSKY
WYTSKY

Hey guys, This is my Heatsheild tutorial as promised. It works really well in conjuction with the cai I made a few days ago, there apears to be alot more top end torque, espesically on the freeway, e

mid life crisis
mid life crisis

ya mums hair drier or ya dads :-)

Posted Images

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I bought a fairly cheap 'automotive' multimeter from dick smith ot radio parts a while back which also came with a K type thermocouple or what ever they are called. You can plug it in and run the wire to the air box etc. Unfortunately you don't get two sensors two compare at one time but you do get a multimeter out of it too. Maybe one of your mates wants one too and then you'd have two readings?

Interesting mate, can you pm some details so I can have a bit of a research?

cheers, Adam

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Im keen on doing something like this for summer, oh and wicked job btw.

Does anyone know of a more heat resistant material to use? maybe some aluminium sheet metal with heat sinks around lol.. a little over the top?

Also have you had any problems with police? or is it perfectly legal?

thanks.

you can use http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aramid , a silver version of carbon fiber for heatshields.. they use it on the space shuttle and jet engines. etc.

Plexi comes in all forms and some melts easier then others.. I wouldnt use it on anything that gets hot ??? there are thermal plastics out there so make sure you get the right one or a fire /melted plastic will follow

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What do you guys use to cut the perspex? I've tried a jigsaw before and it just cracks even at slow speed.

Cheers

I had absolutely no troubles cutting it with a jigsaw, as I have done a few times... maybe your using a blade for cutting metal as oppose to cutting wood (which I used as the perspex is softer)

  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...
xiaorpowr Enthusiast

xiaorpowr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Fantastic write up. Just what I was after. Thanks man

great tutorial. has anyone had any trouble from the police with this covering their pod?

If the poe poe feel like f**king you, you will be f**ked. Regardless what is on your car :P

I think the dark perspex should attract minimal attention, far better than having pods exposed.

Edited by xiaorpowr
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Aleckr33 Rising Star

Aleckr33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nice work!

Im going to make an attempt at this at the end of the week.

Well, just finished my airbox tonight.. i couldn't find tinted perspex at any bunnings store in sydney so I chose to use clear perspex instead. I think tinted does look better though. I had to make 2 holes because iv got a return flow intercooler setup.

Thank you Adam!! (WYTSKY)

Cheers,

Aleck

post-63786-0-87493000-1301657426_thumb.jpg

post-63786-0-75749400-1301657435_thumb.jpg

post-63786-0-35545400-1301657443_thumb.jpg

Edited by Aleckr33
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thats really tidy! I need to get my ass into making one too.

Do you notice if the pod etc is cool after long drives? I was thinking of making one, and i too have a Blitz Return flow, so was wondering whether there is sufficient airflow around the headlight? Was going to try incorporate the stock snorkle, and use Crabon instead of plastic :cool:

Speaking of crabon, does anyone know if that sheet stuff you can buy will bend with heat like that? or will it just go fuuparr ans snap?

Edited by gotRICE?
Aleckr33 Rising Star

Aleckr33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I feel a lot more throttle response, the pod is cooler after a long drive, but i think i am suffocating it... The car feels like its lost a bit of power on full throttle, so on the weekend i'll drill a hole down to the front guard and set up a custom air intake so it can get all the air it needs.

Edited by Aleckr33
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...