Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Just in the process of installing a rb26dett power fc into my rb20det and i have purchased a boost control kit and it has to plug into the standard boost solenoid. After a bit of a look around the engine bay i have found this thing with JECS written on it. I looked at a non turbo rb20 and it didnt have it so its looking good so far. Am i correct, is this the solenoid im after?

Also wondering if anyone knows whether or not the rb26dett and rb20det have the same plug on the solenoid?

thanks

post-39806-1204538244_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208787-standard-rb20-boost-solenoid/
Share on other sites

the pfc kit is meant to plug into the standard boost solenoid... has anyone with a rb20det and rb26dett pfc ever fitted the boost control kit? I havent got it yet its on its way, and computer is only half in, so i dont know which plugs come with it but im trying to sort it out befor i get it so its easy smoothe intallation

yeah but i think i might have a problem, as fc and boost control kit is designed for a rb26 it should plug into standard 26 solenoid... but i wonthave one.. hmmm

any other thoughts?

I got no idea what that thing is (isnt not present on a BNR32), I'd suggest that a metal box with only two thick wires going to it, isn't your boost solenoid :)

The boost kits comes with a solenoid, similar looking to the ones used in the AVCR and E-Boost setups; u don't use the original.

R32s don't have a boost solenoid as stated above

You should get one with the PFC boost controller kit and reroute waste-gate lines to run off the solenoid provided

That way you can wire the BC kit off that

No idea what that metal box is but when someone finds out can you tell me too please

do rb26's have a standard solenoid?? Cause the pfc bc kit is made for gtr33 same as my ecu. So it probably wont come with a solenoid if a 26 has a standard solenoid.

also that silver box, befor thinking it was a boost solenoid i think it might be a resister pack for something

Resistor pack - thats what i orig kinda thought.. but they have a lot more then 2 wires going into it, plus need boost lines as well :P

How ever much it will help, uploaded a picture from my BNR32... years ago, please don't laugh about it looking like Kosovo.

Stocko boost solenoid is to the right of the relay box, with boost lines going to it. I think R33's are the same.

med_gallery_14713_1542_144100.jpg

Edit:

do rb26's have a standard solenoid??

"Doh, posted b4 refresh'n - as above, I know R32 GTR's have em, i ignorantly, assumed all R32+ Skylines did :) ...

Regardless, outa my league but I'd say the boost solenoid comes with all PFC Boost kits... as this quote

"The high grade solenoid valve is the same one used in our Apexi Super AVC-R boost controller."

From This Link

Edited by GeeTR
This thing is a relay for the fuel pump if I'm not mistaken. It sends something like 9v to the fuel pump on idle, to minimize fuel consumption. U can tear it out. Nobody needs that.

Spot on its a resistor for the fuel pump.

yeah that silver box is for the rb20det injectors.

Na its not, maybe your getting confused with the resistor pack the GTR run, they look similar but RB20 don't use them as the injectors are high impedance anyways

This thing is a relay for the fuel pump if I'm not mistaken. It sends something like 9v to the fuel pump on idle, to minimize fuel consumption. U can tear it out. Nobody needs that.

hmm so what happens if you rip it out, 0v at idle or full 12v at idle?

While I'm here, does any PFC boost controller kit work with any PFC?

I have an AP Engineering RB20 PFC and I don't even want to thinking about looking for/finding a BC kit to suit that.. was hard enough finding the PFC it self

Eg: Would an R32 GTR BC kit work on my AP Engineering RB20 PFC?

:laugh:

Na its not, maybe your getting confused with the resistor pack the GTR run, they look similar but RB20 don't use them as the injectors are high impedance anyways

hmm so what happens if you rip it out, 0v at idle or full 12v at idle?

The car will start then stall if you have it unplugged, so i'd suggest 0 at idle. Technically you have a break in the circuit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...