Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone can help here?

I'm trying to think which is the best to go for?

Obviously i'm chasing the best response and yet provide with the power i'm chasing.

a Garrett GT2871R with .63 rear housing or

Garrett GT2876 with .86 Rear housing or

Garrett GT30 all with ball bearings

I'm chasing power between 300-330kw at the rear wheels

It's to go on my R33 with RB25DET engine that has:

2mm Cometic head gasket

Tomei heavy duty Valve springs

264 in/ex cams

3.5" exhaust

Walbro 255L pump

WOLF 3D V4 ECU

HKS Boost Controller

38mm Tial External Wastegate

HKS Cast Iron Low Mount manifold

FMIC

Filter

Front Face Plenum with 80mm throttle body

SARD 550cc injectors

Splitfire Ignition

Iridium spark plugs.

GTR Radiator

Adjustable cam gears.

Think of changing my Walbro pump to a Bosch 044 pump with a surge tank instead but i don't know if it's necessary or not, What do you guys think?

Edited by Deceeve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209372-need-help-on-turbo-selection-guys/
Share on other sites

My choice would be GT3037 .82 run at 22-24psi (as im doing) that way you will have good response and will achieve your power goal.Rather than buying a bigger turbo with more lag. But having that 2mm headgasket it will be a bit doughy down low.

Frankly if you are targeting 300kW as a minimum, you'd do well to head straight to a GT3582.

I noted that your shopping list / parts list includes an external gate, so any of the GT28 series stuff won't be suitable or cut it from a flow viewpoint anyway.

Suggest doing a search, using either GT30, GT35, or 300rwkW as key words for turbo specs. There are a few blokes who have exceeded 300kW but you have to make sure it lives a reasonably long life by giving it the right supporting systems.

I hope your fuel system and engine breathing system is well thought out. If you're actually going to use that power (ie at a track) then cooling (radiator and oil) should be factored in. Get rid of the Walbro, use a Nismo in tank pump.

Keep us posted with updates please, and good luck.

i dunno go the smaller frame turbo and stick the temp probe in a cup of coffee and bob's your uncle. :)

nah, i'm with dale. wringing the neck of GT3076 to get there might be more trouble than it's worth.

Edited by wolverine
My choice would be GT3037 .82 run at 22-24psi (as im doing) that way you will have good response and will achieve your power goal.Rather than buying a bigger turbo with more lag. But having that 2mm headgasket it will be a bit doughy down low.

Wouldn't the GT2871R white achieve around 300rwkw with very minimal lag especially with the 2mm head gasket?

if running the GT3037 .82 what RPM does the boost comes on and when do you actually hits full boost though?

Is the mods in your car much different to mind?

I'm just not sure how early i can get the turbo to come on boost early enough with the thicker head gasket you see and yet still achieve the goal.

With the 3037 id imagine (in my car) i would see full boost (22psi) by 3800rpm,but i will have a Greddy plenum,cams and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.So might be a little later in your application.

Frankly if you are targeting 300kW as a minimum, you'd do well to head straight to a GT3582.

I noted that your shopping list / parts list includes an external gate, so any of the GT28 series stuff won't be suitable or cut it from a flow viewpoint anyway.

Suggest doing a search, using either GT30, GT35, or 300rwkW as key words for turbo specs. There are a few blokes who have exceeded 300kW but you have to make sure it lives a reasonably long life by giving it the right supporting systems.

I hope your fuel system and engine breathing system is well thought out. If you're actually going to use that power (ie at a track) then cooling (radiator and oil) should be factored in. Get rid of the Walbro, use a Nismo in tank pump.

Keep us posted with updates please, and good luck.

I've already got that mods in my car and is now using the Hyper Gear TR44 and turbo seems to be surging. It comes on boost like so late of about 3500RPM with not even enough G-force and then just die so fast at about 6000RPM. Giving me no power to play with at all.

Not going to be using it on the track just weekend car for cruising or something. With the mods i have wouldn't the GT30 or GT35 makes it alittle too laggy especially with the 2mm thick gasket?

I was thinking of going for the new Turbonetics T62-1 Dual ceramic ball bearing and it is a patent developed by NASA :)

The walbro pump i have is also an in tank pump but what makes the Nismo one more better?

I forgot to add that my fuel system is a sard 550cc with using Splitfire Ignition and Iridium spark plugs.

Will keep everyone posted on the projects.

With the 3037 id imagine (in my car) i would see full boost (22psi) by 3800rpm,but i will have a Greddy plenum,cams and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.So might be a little later in your application.

So you're saying even with the aftermarket plenum with 264 cams and HKS low mount exhaust and the 2mm head gasket i would expect full boost to hit a little later than 3800RPM?

I'm only after anywhere between 300-330rwkw but is also considering the Turbonectics dual Ceramic Ball bearing turbo it's just that i haven't heard anyone in OZ used it before on a skyline especially since it's just new as well. It's rated at 600HP with .63 rear housing.

Mate the 2871 wont even come into the ballpark. Turbo homework you need :)

Max of around 250rwkw on a good day.

Simply put, 300rwkw you ain't going to see anything resembling "response" until after 4000rpm, 4200-4400 is more likely.

And on a stocker motor, GT35, your gonna be limited with RPM range upto 7500 at the most being I wouldn't go much further without uprated rod bolts in the bottom end more so than the coin you spent on the head as the bottom end is the more critical part of it IMO

Mate the 2871 wont even come into the ballpark. Turbo homework you need :laugh:

Max of around 250rwkw on a good day.

Simply put, 300rwkw you ain't going to see anything resembling "response" until after 4000rpm, 4200-4400 is more likely.

And on a stocker motor, GT35, your gonna be limited with RPM range upto 7500 at the most being I wouldn't go much further without uprated rod bolts in the bottom end more so than the coin you spent on the head as the bottom end is the more critical part of it IMO

So in your ipinion with the mods what do you think the best turbo to get that power?

That is crap.

It will not make that much power, and if it did, it would have the engine on the brink of destruction.

Either that, or you like using happy dynos.

Darrens S14 drift car is an example. As for Alberts S15 making 280rwkw on 15psi with another. I'm not talkin the T2 flanged butcher special either. Theres no reason why a T3 flanged GT3071R cannot make that sort of power, altho it will be stretching its legs. A quick read thru a thread just below this turns up;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30....html&st=20

290rwkw with a cropped version! Well then 300 should be no probs with an unmolested GT3071.

Edited by Busky2k

its true... mine cranked 290 rwkw the other day with a cropped 3071R, and 1.2 bar boost to do it. i was making 265 rwkw on 1.2 bar, then chucked some cams in it and now its making more power on same boost.

the 3071R is an awesome all round tuerbo for response and power... they will make 300 rwkw, but not anything massive over that.

I wouldn't mind seeing some of these dyno sheets so I can see just how much the dyno operator has fudged the final power readout.

I have a 3076 with water methanol injection - and it struggles to make 310rwkw on 18psi of boost.

How could a smaller turbo make it just as easy?

there are examples of some extreme results both high and low for any given turbo. given a choice i would shoot for lower peak power output and go a smaller framed turbo every time but this is dependent on use hence it is a personal choice.

simon-R32 has an amazing result out of the GCG cropped 3071 turbo. i am aware of a workshop has struggled to make power with another example of the same turbo. since GCG are highly reputable it is a real headscratcher why one is shooting the lights out and another hasn't gone close. i would have expected simons to top out closer to 270-280rwkw with cams and the great response with the extra care in the tuning and setup.

if 330rwkw is the target i still reckon GT3582

Edited by wolverine

why do you want 300 - 330rwkw's?

does that sound like a nice figure?

personally i would choose a .82 gt3582r but expect full boost around 4000 - 4200rpm

pull hard to 8k happily make 300-350kws depending on boost.

gt30 is at the end of its chain working that hard, and is the same price as the gt35 so why stretch it when you can do it easily.

my gt3582r-iw, with a high stall auto, is still managing 320rwkw on 23psi and no

knock, on shell v power.

my old gt3071 with the auto was out of puff around the 270kw mark

and remember to be prepared for a $10k rebuild either way at those figures.

why do you want 300 - 330rwkw's?

does that sound like a nice figure?

personally i would choose a .82 gt3582r but expect full boost around 4000 - 4200rpm

pull hard to 8k happily make 300-350kws depending on boost.

gt30 is at the end of its chain working that hard, and is the same price as the gt35 so why stretch it when you can do it easily.

my gt3582r-iw, with a high stall auto, is still managing 320rwkw on 23psi and no

knock, on shell v power.

my old gt3071 with the auto was out of puff around the 270kw mark

and remember to be prepared for a $10k rebuild either way at those figures.

The reason i'm aiming for that figures is that i'm still running on stock bottom end and i believe that's the safe figures i can push it to for the R33.

I think the GT3582R would offers that power but don't you think with my 2mm head gasket it would be pretty damn laggy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...