Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about getting one of the new stealth cooling pro intercooler from Just Jap - see link below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...94#entry3707494

They use the factory cooler pipes on a r33. Does anyone know/think they would match up to the Stagea factory pipes? If so it looks like an easy install!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209747-stagea-intercooler/
Share on other sites

i installed an R33 ARC FMIC, slightly shorter than these, bolted up to factory pipes, might just have to modify the mounting points slightly and do a bit of hacking on the front inner metal bar. But with enough skill and patience anything can be made to fit.

I don't see why it wouldn't fit because the pipes suggest that it would fit up really easily.

I'd much rather try and get this kit to work rather than their other kit which involves drilling a hole in the chassis.

Exactly what ive been looking for, thanks for putting it up. Ive ordered one, will let you know if theres any problems but i doubt it, its all in the same place.

cheers.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Morgan you will have to do some mod`s to reo bar i hav just had dumie fit of blitz & had to mod reo so good luck dude.cheer`post-36964-1205209662_thumb.jpgs chuckie.post-36964-1205209578_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209732_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209804_thumb.jpgcooler size is 360x820x70.

they look good

look to be exact same size to my Apexi cooler, exact same shape etc except mine is HALF tube'n'fin and HALF bar'n'plate

Id be getting one of these intercoolers, if you want to use the same factory holes

you'll need a couple of stainless pipes tho to go from inside engine bay to the intercooler, I used a pipe kit off ebay

edit: I didnt hack anaything, bar the plastic Dayz front bar numberplate bracket (to open it up to let max air flow thru). if you install the 'cooler on a slight angle it fits without touching the reo bar

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

Edited by MRO
Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

oh I thought they didnt come with pipes.

nice buy if they do, thats for sure.

um, photos, none here at work

there are intercooler threads on here where Ive posted pics

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Id like to get a small sticker number plate eventually.

DCAM0010-1.jpg

DCAM0014.jpg

DCAM0010.jpg

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

i mounted my plate on the bar itself just above the original holes

post-26949-1205220932_thumb.jpg

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Tangles, where in Adelaide are you?

I'd like to have a look at your intercooler install if you don't mind.

I've got a front mount kit coming for my RS4.

:blink:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
    • I'll sit down and get a post together 😁
    • The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?
×
×
  • Create New...